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mannime
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Hi guys, I plan to do a resin infusion as follows: (top to bottom) bagging film (from starter pack) 160g twill weave 390g twill weave closed cell foam 390g twill weave 160g twill weave flat acrylic mould (perspex) As this is first time I'm going to do this I'm worried if the finished product will be shiny, smooth and glossy on both sides? Or I am missing something here? Thank you
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r0bsk1
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With a standard infusion process you'll need to use a flow media and peel ply to enable the removal of the flow media when the resin is cured. This will give you a dull roughed finish on one side. To have 2 class A finishes you need to use 2 molds. Also replace the closed call foam with Soric which is designed to be used for infusion and removes the need for the flow media. So you'll have a stack like...... flat acrylic mould (perspex) 160g twill weave 390g twill weave Soric 390g twill weave 160g twill weave flat acrylic mould (perspex)
Rob
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mannime
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Rob, thanks for your reply. Well I cannot use another perspex on top, because the top surface will be slightly curved. I read somewhere on EC website that their bagging film can be used to achieve glossy finish without peel ply and mesh, but maybe I'm wrong. Can someone confirm this? Rob, what do you think if I stick to my original stack and just add peel ply and mesh before bagging it? This would come out with rough finish on the top side, but can I then polish it with sanding paper and use some polish at the end to achieve glossy finish? Thank you
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r0bsk1
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Yes, you'll get a shine off the bagging material but it'll be nothing like what you'd get from a proper mold. The bagging material will conform to the carbon fabric and you'll get lots of humps and bumps. Try a test piece and you'll see what i mean off.
Yes, you can refinish the peel ply finish but thats alot or elbow work.
In my experiance doing something like you've described needs a upper and lower mould. what kind of curve are we talking? Would a thinner sheet of persex not conform to the bend if you put the whole thing under vacuum? But again you'll need soric foam for the infusion.
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mannime
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Rob, could give me an explanation as to why infusion wouldn't work with closed cell foam ?
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r0bsk1
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The closed cell foam would act as a barrier to the resin and it will not penetrate the layers of carbon against the mold.
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Matthieu Libeert
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I have to say, i've worked with closed cell foam and it worked for me... There's a thing with the plexiglass, perspex, pmma,... :p that could cause a problem... I've once did an infusion on a flat piece of plexiglass, Due to the resin getting hot when reacting it melted the plexiglass into the piece, making it a difficult to remove even with the mouldrelease applied on it, had to remove it with a heatgun... But just like robsk1 says just do some testsamples to see how it works for you, maybe I just had some good/bad luck with the closed cell foam and plexiglass.
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mannime
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Hi Matthieu, now I'm worried about my plexiglass surface. Any suggestions as to what else I could use? I need as flat surface as possible, to avoid any additional sanding and polishing on the part. Thanks
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pk_090
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Glass sheet, needs to be a good quality toughened glass, and not laminated. Ideally automotive glass would be good, but finding a flan non curved piece is the tricky part. Alex
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Matthieu Libeert
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Mirrors work out great too check this video I've made me making some testsamples.
its not my best video but proves that you can do an infusion on a mirror with a very good finnish!
PS: Before I started using infusion and all that complex stuff, ive made some realy good loocking small, flat parts using wet lamination with plenty of resin and then sandwishing the laminate in between two pieces of laminated wood (I don't know the name in english but it's mdf-wood with a shiny thin (coloured) topcoat.) First I've first only used clamps than improved to vacuumbag the "sandwich" wood - laminate - wood. excess resin was squeezed out. This means you get a good loocking part, but it's more for cosmetic purpose.
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