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Matthieu Libeert
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Well I did this for personal use, to add to my "material library" I haven't tested them in a lab or something like that so I don't have numbers about their stiffness and strenght. What I can say is that the PVC foam cored sample is quit strong in ratio to his weight. A second remarkable thing was the carbonfiber sandwich with fiberglass. I've did Carbon-glas-Carbon-glas-Carbon resulting in a very stiff, but heavier part. samples with the carbon only start to get stiff after 5+ layers. When there are less layers its quit easy to bend.
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mannime
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Hi Matthieu, thanks for sharing that video. I'm really interested in your test results. Do you mind sharing them? Thanks
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Matthieu Libeert
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Mirrors work out great too check this video I've made me making some testsamples.
its not my best video but proves that you can do an infusion on a mirror with a very good finnish!
PS: Before I started using infusion and all that complex stuff, ive made some realy good loocking small, flat parts using wet lamination with plenty of resin and then sandwishing the laminate in between two pieces of laminated wood (I don't know the name in english but it's mdf-wood with a shiny thin (coloured) topcoat.) First I've first only used clamps than improved to vacuumbag the "sandwich" wood - laminate - wood. excess resin was squeezed out. This means you get a good loocking part, but it's more for cosmetic purpose.
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pk_090
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Glass sheet, needs to be a good quality toughened glass, and not laminated. Ideally automotive glass would be good, but finding a flan non curved piece is the tricky part. Alex
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mannime
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Hi Matthieu, now I'm worried about my plexiglass surface. Any suggestions as to what else I could use? I need as flat surface as possible, to avoid any additional sanding and polishing on the part. Thanks
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Matthieu Libeert
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I have to say, i've worked with closed cell foam and it worked for me... There's a thing with the plexiglass, perspex, pmma,... :p that could cause a problem... I've once did an infusion on a flat piece of plexiglass, Due to the resin getting hot when reacting it melted the plexiglass into the piece, making it a difficult to remove even with the mouldrelease applied on it, had to remove it with a heatgun... But just like robsk1 says just do some testsamples to see how it works for you, maybe I just had some good/bad luck with the closed cell foam and plexiglass.
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r0bsk1
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The closed cell foam would act as a barrier to the resin and it will not penetrate the layers of carbon against the mold.
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mannime
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Rob, could give me an explanation as to why infusion wouldn't work with closed cell foam ?
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r0bsk1
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Yes, you'll get a shine off the bagging material but it'll be nothing like what you'd get from a proper mold. The bagging material will conform to the carbon fabric and you'll get lots of humps and bumps. Try a test piece and you'll see what i mean off.
Yes, you can refinish the peel ply finish but thats alot or elbow work.
In my experiance doing something like you've described needs a upper and lower mould. what kind of curve are we talking? Would a thinner sheet of persex not conform to the bend if you put the whole thing under vacuum? But again you'll need soric foam for the infusion.
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mannime
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Rob, thanks for your reply. Well I cannot use another perspex on top, because the top surface will be slightly curved. I read somewhere on EC website that their bagging film can be used to achieve glossy finish without peel ply and mesh, but maybe I'm wrong. Can someone confirm this? Rob, what do you think if I stick to my original stack and just add peel ply and mesh before bagging it? This would come out with rough finish on the top side, but can I then polish it with sanding paper and use some polish at the end to achieve glossy finish? Thank you
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