Making a carbon fiber roof..


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Fredrik Welen
Fredrik Welen
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How long would be a good time to clamp the epoxy resin of after I clamp the vacuum????       30sek?
Fredrik Welen
Fredrik Welen
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Fredrik Welen
Fredrik Welen
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In this case I got 4 layers at a total of 1300 grams/sqare meter..

I made all the layup and set up the vacuum and feed spirals to long edges. I discovered that my vacuum bag was damage when packed .. The metal staples used when puting the package together punshed holes through most of the bagging materials.. Just enough of the inner part of the roll could be used to cover my mold.. But I was not certain and it was a pain to have that in the back of my mind looking for very very small vacuum leaks.

I got it seald now anyway and did a vacuum test for 24h. I let air in and gave it vacuum a few times and in between pushed all the layers in the corners with a pice of cardboard . I hope that is enough to make sure there is no bridgeing.

If I have time i will do the infusion toknight.. More pic:s will come.
oekmont
oekmont
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It can be, if you got a very thin laminate (like 1x240g or 2x100g) and a thicker flow media and you got a really tight resin management. But usually no, there will be no print through.

Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Fredrik Welen - 4/17/2018 10:22:19 AM
Do I risk any print through if I pice several bits of infusion mesh together with overlaping joints between pices?  

iI did not have time to do the baging and vacuum drop test yesterday.. I am hoping for better luck today..

No that's no problem. It's just slightly harder to remove afterwards.

Fredrik Welen
Fredrik Welen
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Do I risk any print through if I pice several bits of infusion mesh together with overlaping joints between pices?  

iI did not have time to do the baging and vacuum drop test yesterday.. I am hoping for better luck today..
Edited 8 Years Ago by Fredrik Welen
Hanaldo
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Yeh by all accounts those are excellent solutions too. Haven't tried them personally, I always find it easier to just infuse from the sides. Probably more worth it if you're doing a production run on something where central feed would really be beneficial. I can certainly see the advantages, especially if it was then combined with the MTI system as well.
oekmont
oekmont
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An alternative way would be to place the feed line down the middle, but in an "omega riser". Look at

https://shop.hp-textiles.com/shop/de/Vakuumtechnik/Steckanschluesse--Vakuumtechnik/Blade-Runner--/

For what I am talking about.
You can easily made it yourself out by sewing some flow media.
This way, the feed line isn't pressed against your laminate, and doesn't print through at all.

Fredrik Welen
Fredrik Welen
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Your a life saver.. I would have hate to get print through as a suprice.. 

So long side spiral on each side it is then.. One for vacuum and the other as feed.. I will set it up to knight and do a 24h vacuum drop test. thank you so much..
Edited 8 Years Ago by Fredrik Welen
Hanaldo
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Yeh bang on about the central feed. It doesn't matter too much if the resin reaches the spiral early, it won't really flow that much faster along the vacuum spiral. It is just important that it doesn't reach the vacuum port itself straight away, so generally you place this at the furthest point from the inlet (so in this case, in one of the corners). Central feed wins everytime for me, but the biggest consideration is print-through. If your laminate is only thin, and ports and spiral you have placed on top of it will cause a distortion in the surface of your part that will always be visible. So if you aren't using a core in your laminate, then it is best to keep all the feed and vacuum lines off the part and on the flanges.

Feed and vacuum placement wont really effect where the resin flows over the part, it should flow everywhere without too much trouble provided you have mesh everywhere and no bridging. The bigger concern is where the resin will flow fastest, but on a part like this you haven't got a lot of geometry to worry about. Infusing the shortest distance just makes life easier for you.
GO

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