I can't agree with that. For me it works brilliant every single time. For smaller parts even brushing the laquer into the mold gives perfect results

Just do a test with any specific materials you are wanting to use, not all 2k clear coats are the same. There are some that work, there are lots that don't. Delamination is a common issue, given regular 2k clear coats aren't designed to have an open bond window, you are essentially applying epoxy to an unprepared surface and expecting a good bond. As I said, some of them will bond and work well, but lots won't. So if it isn't made for the job then just do a test piece and give it a bit of punishment after demoulding to see how it holds up. Hell, even if it is made for the job I would still do a test before trying something on this scale.

Well, hanaldo is obviously right here. A quick test on a flat glass sheet is almost always a good idea, when trying something new.
to be honest, I had a problem one time I used specific in mold coating laquer. Wich let me switch to much cheaper standard laquer. The problem seem to be a one off, but ever since I never could find a reason to switch back to the special laquer. Epoxy got quite good bonding characteristics, so it will bond to many materials quite well.

Ok.. So I have been back at it..   I got some new polishing stuff and different sanding pads but I just cant get a perfekt finish..  I keep getting small scratcha marks from the orbila sander.. I get better result from wet sanding than dry sanding though.. The 3M soft wetsanding pads were garbage.. They last for a few seconds.. I got some from festool and they were way better but I only got 1000 grit. And the 2000 grit 3m:s just doesnt work very well.. They are expancive though. I tried polich it out as good as I could.. But with just swiping the surface off with a lint free cloth caused some scratches so I gave up.. I think the surface is gloss enough anyway and the very small imperfections could probebly be fixed before clear coat.. Also the gelcoat repair was very hard to get a seamless joint over to the rest of the surface So it wont be perfect anyway.. I did a wood frame for the mold so hopefully it will be stabel during post cureing.. 

I did 6 coats of easy lease chemical release agent and 2 coats of release wax on that. After the easy lease I still get the cloudy smear looking finish despite that I only uses new clean lint free cloths.. Maybee I use too much?.. I want all the surface to be visable wet and to get that I need to wet the cloth out.. After that I wipe the surface with a new clean cloth.. Everything done in about .5 squere meters.. Maybe when the next section is done it disolves the one did previusly? 
I think it will do its job anyway though.

After that I did the layup.. 200g twill, 2 layers of 450 twill, 1 last layer of 200g twill. Pela ply and infusion net ontop of that.. 

Here is the layup..



The spiral part to the right is meant to be the feed and the spiral to the left is for vacuum. The knifes point out the start and end for the feed spiral..

This I need help with since this is my first infusion layup..  Will this be all go or should I change it some way??

Thanks for your input.. Will the resin get over the corners and bends and to the short sides setting it up that way? The long sides as vacuum and feed..

I set it up this way due to the inputs in this thread..   After looking at severla videos etc.. I would without what has been said here have a vaccum spiral all around the mold and a feed spiral down the middle so there is alwas the same length between the the feed and vacuum spiral. Is that what you mean? I understand completely that it is way faster..   It alot of vacuum spiral around that way though and will that cause any problems? Like if the resin reaches the point of the spiral first that is furthest away from the vacuum port? Is it enough with just one vacuum conection that way?

Yeh bang on about the central feed. It doesn't matter too much if the resin reaches the spiral early, it won't really flow that much faster along the vacuum spiral. It is just important that it doesn't reach the vacuum port itself straight away, so generally you place this at the furthest point from the inlet (so in this case, in one of the corners). Central feed wins everytime for me, but the biggest consideration is print-through. If your laminate is only thin, and ports and spiral you have placed on top of it will cause a distortion in the surface of your part that will always be visible. So if you aren't using a core in your laminate, then it is best to keep all the feed and vacuum lines off the part and on the flanges.

Feed and vacuum placement wont really effect where the resin flows over the part, it should flow everywhere without too much trouble provided you have mesh everywhere and no bridging. The bigger concern is where the resin will flow fastest, but on a part like this you haven't got a lot of geometry to worry about. Infusing the shortest distance just makes life easier for you.

Your a life saver.. I would have hate to get print through as a suprice.. 

So long side spiral on each side it is then.. One for vacuum and the other as feed.. I will set it up to knight and do a 24h vacuum drop test. thank you so much..

An alternative way would be to place the feed line down the middle, but in an "omega riser". Look at

https://shop.hp-textiles.com/shop/de/Vakuumtechnik/Steckanschluesse--Vakuumtechnik/Blade-Runner--/

For what I am talking about.
You can easily made it yourself out by sewing some flow media.
This way, the feed line isn't pressed against your laminate, and doesn't print through at all.