Material calculator/equation??


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speed_demon
speed_demon
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Hello, I have been reading everything I can find about composites but I haven't found any type of equation/calculator for determining composite thickness requirements. I know different resins, etc. have a bearing on the strength but, there's got to be a "safe" relation between how much composite equals the strength of an object made of steel/aluminum. I am trying not to waste too much material and loose the weight saving of making parts out of composites. I'm also not looking to make parts that risk my life on (bike frames, control arms), just automotive body panels, intake manifold or a pickup tonneau cover.  I think a formula wouldn't be too hard that would make parts safely 15-20% strong than OEM and still have a substantial weight savings. For example: How thick would a fender need to be if it was made out of e-glass or carbon fiber vs. OEM sheet metal?  I know a wheel well would have to thicker to survive a rock from the tire tread at speed, but how thick? Would a layer or two of kevlar add to 2mm of e-glass be good or over-kill?  Everywhere I see PSI tensile strength,etc. but does it mean that I would need half the thickness of an aluminum bracket if the fiberglass is twice the metal's strength rating?

Thank you for your time, hope to hear back from you soon.
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speed_demon
speed_demon
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I think people are getting off track... with the shapes and variables (twill/plain, low/high humidity, post cure, etc.) because sheet metal's rigidity is affected by shaping. If "you" had to make/replace a given (your choose) steel hood and make it the same...I.E. shape and hood frame out of 100% CF AND one out of 100%E glass what would be the wt cloth and # of layers you would use.  I know with the variables no one will/can give an "exact" # for a 1 to 1 ratio, so lets say a range or minimum( do in a lab by a machine) to a DYI guy in his backyard for comparison sake. For example thickness of fiberglass to make a 2"x 4" box tubing 4ft long that would as strong or stronger (in every load direction) than one made of  1/8"mild steel. There "is" an equivalent # out there that would always give an "atleast as strong" for an equivalent of a different material.
ChrisR
ChrisR
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"If "you" had to make/replace a given (your choose) steel hood and make it the same..."

My choice? for street us or race, CF exposed or painted? Race -  maybe 1 layer of 200gsm each side of a foam / cork core - it's not structural , its a cover, just need the stiffness to prevent deflection - if it was for street use I'd use quite a bit more to minimise the chance of penetrations/shattering from a pedestrian impact

"...I.E. shape and hood frame .... to make a 2"x 4" box tubing 4ft long that would as strong or stronger (in every load direction) than one made of  1/8"mild steel..."

These two terms (in bold) make me think you are still thinking in terms of a homogeneous isotropic material. You create the hood shape AND frame as ONE if designing to minimise weight.

If you are designing a box, you need to know how the load is being transferred in to/out of and along the box. This is how you orientate the fibres.
speed_demon
speed_demon
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ChrisR (22/09/2015)
"If "you" had to make/replace a given (your choose) steel hood and make it the same..."

My choice? for street us or race, CF exposed or painted? Race -  maybe 1 layer of 200gsm each side of a foam / cork core - it's not structural , its a cover, just need the stiffness to prevent deflection - if it was for street use I'd use quite a bit more to minimise the chance of penetrations/shattering from a pedestrian impact

"...I.E. shape and hood frame .... to make a 2"x 4" box tubing 4ft long that would as strong or stronger (in every load direction) than one made of  1/8"mild steel..."

These two terms (in bold) make me think you are still thinking in terms of a homogeneous isotropic material. You create the hood shape AND frame as ONE if designing to minimise weight.

If you are designing a box, you need to know how the load is being transferred in to/out of and along the box. This is how you orientate the fibres.

Thanks for the reply
, I wouldn't be worried about pedestrian impact, LOL.
 I was concerned about the load from a layer of heavy/wet snow causing it to fail. What weight/layers would you use if you made it out of 2 x2 twill say 340 g/m E-glass as I would want to start with a cheaper material first?  I put in that thing about 2x4 4ft long tubing think I would get a "high-side" conversion number vs. a "low-side" number for Laboratory/auto-clave/pre-preg CF, so I could get a general range/ guesstimate.
Edited 10 Years Ago by speed_demon
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