Material calculator/equation??


Author
Message
speed_demon
speed_demon
Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 23, Visits: 163
Hello, I have been reading everything I can find about composites but I haven't found any type of equation/calculator for determining composite thickness requirements. I know different resins, etc. have a bearing on the strength but, there's got to be a "safe" relation between how much composite equals the strength of an object made of steel/aluminum. I am trying not to waste too much material and loose the weight saving of making parts out of composites. I'm also not looking to make parts that risk my life on (bike frames, control arms), just automotive body panels, intake manifold or a pickup tonneau cover.  I think a formula wouldn't be too hard that would make parts safely 15-20% strong than OEM and still have a substantial weight savings. For example: How thick would a fender need to be if it was made out of e-glass or carbon fiber vs. OEM sheet metal?  I know a wheel well would have to thicker to survive a rock from the tire tread at speed, but how thick? Would a layer or two of kevlar add to 2mm of e-glass be good or over-kill?  Everywhere I see PSI tensile strength,etc. but does it mean that I would need half the thickness of an aluminum bracket if the fiberglass is twice the metal's strength rating?

Thank you for your time, hope to hear back from you soon.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K
The general rule of thumb for carbon is to match the thickness. So if you've got a 1mm thick ali/steel part, replacing it with a 1mm thick carbon part will give you an equal strength part for significantly less weight. 

That's the general principal that I follow when replacing panels. Match the thickness, and add a bit if you want it to be a bit stronger and don't mind the additional weight. That is for tensile strength though, calculating things like impact strength isn't quite so easy. I find that comes with experience, you just get a 'feeling' for how strong something needs to be. 
ajb100
ajb100
Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)Supreme Being (1.7K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 346, Visits: 4.4K
There's also the difficulty of rigidity, metal will General be equally as strong in all directions were as a composite is strongest along its warp fibres, so any panel were you're trying to match an existing material needs to have a consideration to orientation
speed_demon
speed_demon
Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 23, Visits: 163
  Thanks for the replies, I have asked so many suppliers/manufacturers and they have "no clue", HUH? How can they sell/recommend stuff they don't know anything about/use.  
   As for the carbon fiber, that is good to know. I haven't used it yet mainly have done fiberglass repairs trucks/boats and wasn't sure as to how much I would need/buy. I'm in the US so shipping/cost currently has it out of my reach to make any large projects.  I was surprised to see how little carbon fiber Matt used to make the hood in the video.

   Any guesstimates on fiberglass/metal equivalents??? I have an older dodge pickup that the aftermarket doesn't make parts for, so I want to make my own. The aftermarket fiberglass hoods (chevy/fords) I've seen seem very thick( excessively heavy), so I wasn't sure if they were over engineered for strength since they mainly use CSM. The fenders I don't see needing to be too thick since it will mainly have to deal with air pressure and just has to be stiff enough. The hood would have to deal with the weight of snow during the winter months. If you had to make the hood in the video out of fiberglass, what weight cloth/ how many layers would you guys use?

An off subject question... Do you guys always use models??? 99% of my parts are going to be "1 of 1", so making a mold seems like a waste of $$$ plus finding a place to store multiple molds?
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)Supreme Being (15K reputation)
Group: Administrators
Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 7.9K
The fundamental problem is you are comparing different materials with different properties.

It really depends on the properties unique to your application.  Everyone's needs and requirements are different, hence why you will struggle to find manufacturers who can give you precise advice as they simply wont have data that is ready to use in a practical sense by the layman or DIY composite enthusiast.    Many of these materials will often be used by companies manufacturing CAD designed products and hence the materials mechanical data is orientated towards those kind of applications where the raw mechanical figures are used in complex mathematical simulation to determine if the material is suitable and set the main parameters.  For the DIY user, often that is not really helpful unless you are prepared to do those calculations yourself.

It is hard to compare steel or aluminium directly to carbon in that sense as in some very important ways they behave very differently.  A prime example is dealing with fixings in metal compared to composite.  Most composites do not take a thread and do not like point loadings by fasteners hence a different approach is needed to spread the load.  This can make it hard to compare to steel which behaves entirely differently. 

Another example is how they behave in failure which will be essential to understand when taking into account safe loading etc.

For non-structural parts such as many body panels, you can follow "rules of thumbs" or copy other tried and tested lay ups you have seen before.  An example is the layups seen in our Video Tutorials which are in most cases are examples of parts our customers may like to make.  So you can use figures such as that for a basis to begin with. But even then, things can be more complex, eg our Fiat 500 bonnet in the video is plenty strong enough for our intended application, but a bonnet on a very large saloon or estate car may be a little bit more flexible with that lay up and hence you would need to adjust accordingly. 

Same with panels intended use.  For example we have found in our and our customers experience that a layer of 200gsm carbon either side of 3mm Lantor Soric can make a panel stiff enough for race car use. But it may well be too flexible for a regular road car or too fragile for a rally cross or rally car.  Also you may find you could go thinner on heavily curved panels or need it to be a thicker layup to stop excess flex on substantially flat panels.

So yes there are some rough rules you can follow as suggested above and in other posts on this forum and elsewhere online, but be prepared to take a good look at your specific application and adjust accordingly.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
speed_demon
speed_demon
Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 23, Visits: 163
Warren, 

 If you made the hood in the video out of e-glass what would you use and how much?

 I think the problem I'm having is that a tensile/strength rating shouldn't be given for a material if it can't be used for comparison. I.E. (numbers just for reference/not exact)  carbon fiber-  2550mpa, 5130 steel - 1275mpa, aluminum 7075 T-6 - 570mpa. I guess I got to get one of the computer programs that you can test a design( showing stress/loads) before wasting money on excess material or worst yet, having it fail.http://blog.dasisolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Figure-2-Linear-Static-stress-results.png

I had the same problem with turbocharger companies and their generic saying on turbine a/r sizing. "Go smaller for quicker spool, larger for top-end".
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K
The tensile strengths can be used for comparison, you just need to understand what they mean and how composite materials work. As Warren said, the data given for materials is really intended for engineers, not the average hobbiest. 

If you did get hold of computer software for composites design, you would likely find that you still need an advanced understanding of the materials you are trying to compute. Certainly none of the software I have used has been very user friendly, it's stuff that a University will run a full unit on just to teach you the very basics. 

To be honest, you don't need to do complex calculations to accomplish what you are trying to do. You need experience with the materials. Get your hands on some, get to know how it behaves and what you can do with it. And get used to the idea that you are going to have to waste some time and materials to get the result that you're after. Composites are still very much 'hand-made' products, and anything hand-made is going to take some degree of skill. Whilst it's relatively easy to learn, it's inevitable that you will waste some materials in the process. 



Also, the US has a good number of companies selling materials, you wouldn't have to import everything from the UK. I 
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)Supreme Being (14K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K
For what it's worth, I'll show you how I would tackle the Fiat 300 bonnet that EC did in the tutorial if I needed to make it with fibreglass instead of carbon. Assuming that you want the fibreglass bonnet to be as similar to the carbon bonnet as possible. Also remember that different materials will have different properties, so it's difficult to give a definite 'X-material will produce Y-results' (which is inherently your problem, as Warren mentioned). With that in mind... 



 If you look at the 'average' mechanical properties of carbon fibre compared to woven fibreglass, carbon is around 1.4 times stronger than fibreglass and around 5 times as stiff. We are using carbon as our base measurement, so let's say the specific tensile strength of carbon is 1 and the specific modulus strength of carbon is 1. Therefore, the specific tensile strength of fibreglass would be 0.71 and the specific modulus strength of fibreglass is roughly 0.2. Therefore, a fibreglass laminate of equal strength to a carbon laminate will be roughly 30% heavier, and will still be almost 4 times as flexible. 

So, the outer skin of the Fiat 300 bonnet was made using 1 layer of 200gsm carbon, 2mm bulker mat, and another layer of 200gsm carbon. The core complicates things slightly, so we will ignore that for now. If for simplicity we assume the bonnet is exactly 1 square metre and has a 60% fibre weight fraction (or if you prefer, a resin to fabric ratio of 0.4:1), then that would mean the laminate weighs ~333 grams for each ply, or 666g total. If an equivalent strength fibreglass bonnet is required then it would need to be 30% heavier, so 433 grams per ply. Take out the 40% resin content of that and you can work out that you would need to replace the 200g carbon fabric with a 260g fibreglass fabric. This will depend on what is commercially available to you, I know that the closest weight fibreglass I can get here is 280 grams. 

Now if you simply replaced the carbon skins with the heavier fibreglass, and still used the 2mm bulker mat, then you would end up with a laminate that is of equivalent strength, but still much more flexible than the carbon version. One could tackle this by using an even heavier fibreglass, however I would go another way. We know that the stiffness of a laminate is a function of the cube of its thickness, so x^3. Ie, if you had a laminate that is 2mm thick, and you doubled it so that the laminate is now 4mm thick, you will have made the laminate 8 times stiffer. If we apply that to the bonnet, then let's say the modulus of the carbon bonnet with a 2mm core is 1, so the modulus of our fibreglass bonnet made with the same 2mm core would be ~0.27. However if we used the next size up core, which is 3mm, then we are increasing the thickness of our laminate by a factor of 1.5, resulting in a laminate that is 3.4 times stiffer.

 Fortunately this is pretty much spot on for what we would require, so based on those calculations you could conclude that if you wanted to produce the carbon bonnet in fibreglass with similar properties, then your layup would be 1 layer of 280g woven fibreglass, 3mm bulker mat, and another layer of 280g fibreglass. The weight of this would then depend on the type of core you used, but say you used 3mm Soric then your fibreglass bonnet would weigh somewhere around 2.5 kg compared to the ~1.75kg carbon bonnet (excluding the inner skin obviously). 
speed_demon
speed_demon
Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)Supreme Being (139 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 23, Visits: 163
Thanks for the reply Hanaldo,

I've always had an engineering mind and like to know the why's & how's. I would have been one if life tuned out different, that's why I try reading everything I can find on a subject. I get that rigidity being affected by thickness/shape/resin/material, like with the hoods underside support and how greater spans need more thickness... just wish there was an equation. The main project I have planned is replacing the front sheet metal for my Street/strip truck project. I want to lighten the front end as much as possible, even thought of making it a 1 piece/tilt nose.
Edited 9 Years Ago by speed_demon
maggie
maggie
Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)Forum Guru (53 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7, Visits: 43
Why don't you use multiple layers with 45 degree angle  changes between layers ?Smile
GO

Merge Selected

Merge into selected topic...



Merge into merge target...



Merge into a specific topic ID...




Similar Topics

Reading This Topic

Explore
Messages
Mentions
Search