A split mould or 2?


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Phil
Phil
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Hi guys!

Have been following you for many years and always been inspired by your YouTube tutorials!

I have a front splitter for my track car that I purchased not long ago and they don’t make it anymore so I’m wanting to make a mould of it incase it gets damaged but more to the fact I would like to make it out of carbon fibre.

It has many angles which means it can’t be made from a single piece mould, I was thinking a 2 piece split or even 3? consisting of a top and bottom so to speak

I would very much like your opinion and any advice you could give me in this venture, the splitter is in 2 parts and pictured is one one half as the other half is a mirror image.... also the aluminium plate bonded to the bottom will be removed For mould making

I have uploaded the pictures to my one drive via a link as o tried to upload the pictures straight to here but after 15mins of waiting it still hadn’t uploaded one picture.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApxzGlwLzg9QhTgOgj0AJpMaPCjM?e=sardGQ

Hope you can assist me
Thanks
Phil
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Simple enough. Looks like it could be possible as a 2-piece, simply split along the middle of the radius of the leading edge. Might need 3, but from the quick look I had I don't see an obvious need for 3. 

Phil
Phil
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Thank you for the reply, I’m hoping to make the part via resin infusion will the tight angle be an issue? I don’t have access to the oven to make the part from prepreg unfortunately
Steve Broad
Steve Broad
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Phil - 6/6/2020 3:03:59 PM
Thank you for the reply, I’m hoping to make the part via resin infusion will the tight angle be an issue? I don’t have access to the oven to make the part from prepreg unfortunately

I keep looking at this and it is almost a single piece mould job :-) But a 2 piece is easy to make along the line Hanaldo suggested so not worth the risk of a mechanical lock.
You will need to spend a lot of time making sure the cloth is in contact with the mould in the tight curved sections, bridging is very easy to do on something like this.

With regard to infusion, you may have difficulty in getting everything into the tight areas so maybe standard wet lay vacuum bagging would be better. However I have not done any infusion so probably talking out of my rear end :-)

Where are you based? Just asking as I have a curing oven that would eat this for breakfast :-) Ah, just checked, West Yorkshire and I am in Essex.

Edited 4 Years Ago by Steve Broad
Phil
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Thanks for the advice buddy! I think a 2 piece mould would be the way forward and I see what you mean about getting cloth in every section, wet lay and vaccum sounds a good idea I may have to try both techniques just to see what diffrence I get
I can see it’s going to be a task and a half! But I think with patience and lots and lots of practice it will look a nice item!
The part that stands vertical at the very front won’t be visible as it’s hidden by the numberplate but that doesn’t mean it can’t be a poor job, I’m hoping to have the underside lip reinforced with some Kevlar as it will get scraped badly with speed bumps.
Yes West Yorkshire Leeds area abit far to travel to Essex unfortunately but thanks for the offer
beliblisk
b
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Infusion shouldnt be a problem. Little spray tack and this can be done without any major weave distortions (its quite easy for places where fingers fit).

If its really tricky gometry perhaps home made prepreg is the way to goSmile 
Edited 4 Years Ago by beliblisk
Hanaldo
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Dead easy to infuse, I wouldn't bother with wet-lay. Just don't try to get the flow mesh in as a single piece and it will be fine.

Phil
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Excellent thank you, il make sure I cut the flow mesh into strips and ensure full coverage into the small tight areas to ensure the resin gets there

With regards adding Kevlar to the bottom would you just add a few strips just for reinforcements

I’m
Hoping to make the carbon will be 3 or 4 layers thick and then reinforce that lower lip with 1 or 2 layers or Kevlar

Advice? To much or not enough?

Hanaldo
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Should be fine, it's not really a functional splitter it's really just a cosmetic lip. So it doesn't need to be super strong. Put a couple of extra layers around the mounting points and that will be plenty.

For the flow mesh, don't bother trying to go around the leading edge, just butt up into it from the top and bottom. The resin will flow an inch or two with no mesh, and that radius will be your biggest challenge with bridging and removing the consumables afterwards.
Phil
Phil
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Will keep that in mind! I’m making a few other moulds of smaller easier items before I take this on, but all advice is appreciated for when I do this part 😁
GO

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