Wet layup and vacuum


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Ronny
Ronny
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Hi
Im new to this and tried skinning a fuse cover.

I did the following
rough sanding with 400 grit
Rinse with industrial cleaner and lighter fluid
One layer with EC epoxy base coat
Then i waited approx 2hours when it was tacky with no paint coming off.
Then i applied one 200g 2twill pro finish layer, cut it formed it and put masking tape around the edges of the carbon.
A thick layer of laminating resin was applied.
After this i covered all the carbon area with peel ply and on top of that a layer of breather cloth and the bag connector.
Then sealed it all with plastic and managed to get a leak free seal.
Let it stay over the night and removed the peel ply.

what i found was that the carbon was firmly in plase, but there was alot of print through and the carbon looks almost dry.

So when using this technique do i have to put on additional layers of resin and vacuum bag it again and again?
How do i reduce the peel ply print on the carbon?


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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Yep, that's it, lots of sanding. That's how I normally do skinning, I apply the carbon with a layer of peel ply and apply vacuum. Once cured, I coat the surface with a reasonably thick layer of epoxy, and sand it down flat with 60 grit on an orbital. Then depending on the part, I might stop there and spray Duratec Sunshield which is high build and hides the 60 grit sanding marks, so that's job done. For cheaper parts, I use a roller to apply a thin layer of epoxy, just enough to fill the 60 grit scratches, let it cure and then wet sand through from 400 to 1200 before compounding. 

One thing to watch out for when vac bagging skinned parts is that excess fabric will get caught in the bag and wrinkle. This will totally destroy the cosmetic finish of your part, so you  need to make sure it's totally flat. 
GO

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