Hi
Im new to this and tried skinning a fuse cover.

I did the following
rough sanding with 400 grit
Rinse with industrial cleaner and lighter fluid
One layer with EC epoxy base coat
Then i waited approx 2hours when it was tacky with no paint coming off.
Then i applied one 200g 2twill pro finish layer, cut it formed it and put masking tape around the edges of the carbon.
A thick layer of laminating resin was applied.
After this i covered all the carbon area with peel ply and on top of that a layer of breather cloth and the bag connector.
Then sealed it all with plastic and managed to get a leak free seal.
Let it stay over the night and removed the peel ply.

what i found was that the carbon was firmly in plase, but there was alot of print through and the carbon looks almost dry.

So when using this technique do i have to put on additional layers of resin and vacuum bag it again and again?
How do i reduce the peel ply print on the carbon?

That's perfect, not dry or print through. That's just what peel ply does, that's actually what it's purpose is. It leaves a surface ready for secondary bonding. 

Ok thanks for the advice.
This is all a learning process so all the parts im working with at the moment are considered a loss, if any parts turns out to be usable, thats a bonus. hehe

But for the secondary layer, should i also use peel ply and vacuum? i mean.. if the peel ply always leaves a mark then it is not suitable for viewable surfaces (sorry for the bad wording)
I guess its probably best to paint on the next resin layer, let it dry and work my way through the grits when sanding.

Yep, that's it, lots of sanding. That's how I normally do skinning, I apply the carbon with a layer of peel ply and apply vacuum. Once cured, I coat the surface with a reasonably thick layer of epoxy, and sand it down flat with 60 grit on an orbital. Then depending on the part, I might stop there and spray Duratec Sunshield which is high build and hides the 60 grit sanding marks, so that's job done. For cheaper parts, I use a roller to apply a thin layer of epoxy, just enough to fill the 60 grit scratches, let it cure and then wet sand through from 400 to 1200 before compounding. 

Supreme! Thanks

There is one issue.
The vacuum connector seems to have left a mark.
Is there anyway to prevent this?

Yeh that will happen. Place the connector off the part somewhere with a bit of breather underneath it. 

about the part not being resin rich...when bagging you need to have a perforated film between the breather and peelply to avoid all the resin being sucked out

Thanks Matt.
Beeing watching your work both on youtube and facebook, great vids!

Ill put perforated film on the list for my next EC order.

thanks ronny

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website: www.mat2composites.com