Few carbon parts for Noble M12


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Warren
Warren
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andygtt (04/05/2012)
what about the peel ply... can that be baggy just making sure it covers and has no voids... or does it need to be tight like another area of carbon.

reason is its impossible to get a single sheet even close in the mould and I will have to saturate it in glue to get it to stick in the nooks and crannies.

im going to have to bag the entire part... but will resin get pulled around the rear of teh part onto the back surface?

peel ply can be baggy to an extent. It needs to fit into the corners as well so no voids occur. it doesnt matter if there are folds or overlap on the peel ply. [/quote]

Plan where your infusion spiral, resin feed and vacuum ports are going to go. The resin feed should be fine if you use enough spiral to spread the resin out.

you could try several vacuum ports that you close off once resin has reached one so you dont waste too much resin waiting for the resin to catch up else where.

If youre worried about resin climbing up the back piece against gravity, do it the other way round, ie let the resin flow down hill.
Edited 13 Years Ago by Warren
andygtt
andygtt
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pics of progress last night








andygtt
andygtt
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what about the peel ply... can that be baggy just making sure it covers and has no voids... or does it need to be tight like another area of carbon.

reason is its impossible to get a single sheet even close in the mould and I will have to saturate it in glue to get it to stick in the nooks and crannies.

im going to have to bag the entire part... but will resin get pulled around the rear of teh part onto the back surface?
Warren
Warren
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use too much bag rather than too little.  You will spend on a mould that size probably a good hour or more getting it drawn down under vac and getting the bag in all the nooks and corners. Youll spend ages moving round the folds to move the bag where you need it and then manipulating it to ensure you dont get bridging on the corners.

A hint is to cut the bag on a soft surface or something you know is 100% free of contaminates or sharp edges as the last thing you want is to transfer the bag material to the mould and later find a hole in it!!  Its annoying having a leak on a small mould let alone a giant one.

If Matt has recommended that layup then you should be fine.  Remember its not a flat panel, its a complex shape with curves and corners, which will all add rigidity. Plus you will get loads more rigidity where the soric is used.   Some complex shaped small trim panels ive done in my car only used 2 layers of 200gsm and they were pretty stiff and plenty stiff enough for a trim piece.

An example of how a curved shape massively adds stiffness:


thats half a brake resevoir and its 3 layers of 200gsm resin infused. And im a fat knacker and it didnt break or crack in any way.
andygtt
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JohnH (02/05/2012)
Hi Andy
Fabulous job you have done on this so far, makes my small stint in this type of work look very small stuff.
One tip I had from Paul at Carbon Mods was, if you want to lay up your carbon and tack it too the mould, mix up a small batch of resin and mix this with methelated spirit, just enough so that you can spray onto the mould at the places you want to tack the cloth to, this does work but takes some time to become tacky, this then is incorporated into the infused resin and does not leave any residue.

All the best
John


I plan to try this on my next small part and I have a little spray bottle for this very purpose... rear clip is a little large and complex shape IMO to try doing this though.

its all got to be sprayed or laquered so not worried about the slight reduction in finish of the final part as it needs keying up anyhow Smile
andygtt
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Warren (02/05/2012)
andygtt (02/05/2012)
thought about foam core, but Im not sure how you apply it with the resin infusion... can I just lay some between 2 layers of carbon?


If you use something like the Lantor Soric that EC stock then preparation is dead easy as you can see on the link.  Also it is a flow media and helps the resin flow, although as youd probably only be using it in some places then youd still need infusion mesh.


aha...  my mistake, Im using that already I should amend my layup to read:

1 layer 200g pro carbon
1 layer 200g carbon
1 layer Lantor soric
1 layer 200-650g carbon

must admit I didnt realise soric helps the flow of the resin in the infusion, Im only doing this layup under advice from Matt Smile

The layup of the clip is taking longer than I expected, I am ironically half way through laying up the soric and then I will do the final layer.... currently Im finding it hard to resist adding in extra layers cause it seems so thin and I want it very rigid.

Im also spending a lot of time mulling over how the hell i'm gona bag this thing... getting me hand into the very rear of it is proving hard, hw am i going to ensure the bag gets in there...
Warren
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andygtt (02/05/2012)
thought about foam core, but Im not sure how you apply it with the resin infusion... can I just lay some between 2 layers of carbon?


If you use something like the Lantor Soric that EC stock then preparation is dead easy as you can see on the link.  Also it is a flow media and helps the resin flow, although as youd probably only be using it in some places then youd still need infusion mesh.
JohnH
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Hi Andy
Fabulous job you have done on this so far, makes my small stint in this type of work look very small stuff.
One tip I had from Paul at Carbon Mods was, if you want to lay up your carbon and tack it too the mould, mix up a small batch of resin and mix this with methelated spirit, just enough so that you can spray onto the mould at the places you want to tack the cloth to, this does work but takes some time to become tacky, this then is incorporated into the infused resin and does not leave any residue.

All the best
John
Daz
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Looking good Smile
andygtt
andygtt
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thought about foam core, but Im not sure how you apply it with the resin infusion... can I just lay some between 2 layers of carbon?
GO

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