Few carbon parts for Noble M12


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andygtt
andygtt
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mould of rear clip is taking more time than I expected... It took 7 hours to do the final filler layer of 4-5 layers of 450mg matt just on the top... or custard layer as my mate calls it lol

separated one of the wheel arch vents... wouldnt normally but needed to prove to myself that it was going to come apart and I wasnt making silly mistakes that would destroy the buck... well they came apart pretty easy with a very strong mould section and great finish Smile










Joe
Joe
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Happy to see things going forward ! Keep us updated Wink

 



 


    A $1000 electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse
andygtt
andygtt
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unfortunatelly an area around the number plate reacted behind the gel coat... I looked at it the next morning and it was dry and fairly localised but I wasnt happy... when I returned to it 15hrs later it had spread to a larger area and separated.

Its also happened to a lesser degree in the light recess, but as this is has the light in Im not going to rectify this and will just make do by repairing in the  mould.


I decided to remove the gel coat in this area and the paint came away... i'm now faced with an area of gel coat to redo which is onto a less than perfect finish on the buck.

I think I will have to gel it again and then repair the finish in the mould otherwise I could do more damage to the ret of the buck removing the rest of the gel coat... its not a disaster, just very unwelcome.... 

amazed that its so localised... could have happened over the entire thing so I guess i should be thankful.

any ideas as to cause... the top coat was 2 pack and primer has settled for months.
Ragece
Ragece
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I used to make molds from parts but maybe not as big as what you've taken on. I ended up spraying all my parts with a polyester type paint specifically for bucks - it didn't react with most of the paint finished. It could be sanded and polished to a mirror shine and liquid release agents used on it also, it made getting molds a lot lot easier and the finish of the part was A1 with no work needed on the mold. The guys at SP systems on the isle of Wight commented on how good the finish of the molds was and that i must have spent hours polishing them. When I told them I hadn't touched the mold and had simply applied release agent they didn't believe me.
 I also found leaving fibreglass molds on the buck for 3~4 days helped them retain shape and size considerably better, early release ended up with misshaped molds as the resin is still curing. 

You may need some frame work adding to those molds to keep them stabilised?
Edited 13 Years Ago by Ragece
andygtt
andygtt
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I will definatelly have to look into getting some of that polyester paint... have you used it with vinylester mould systems as well?

Nearing completion of the mould... only returns on the wheel arches to do as per the last pic.

Also made another Binnacle as self training, use pro finish and I am stunned how good this is and workable... so much so I have ordered a load of it so I can do the entire first layer on the clip in it.... as a result the lines of the weave on the binnacle were flawless and the end part was significantly better than the first.
I still had a leak which resulted in a few dry patches of weave in very outside edges, no voids though as I stuck the carbon down with spray adhesive... I think this part can be used when it is properly laquered but Im still going to make another just as more training and this time I will totally bag the mould as I believe the mould may have a pinhole leak.    






Joe
Joe
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Hi,

I use polyester filler (2pack) as the coat on which the mold is built. It can be polished to a high shine, and I never had a "sticker". I also used it with Unimold system, and its proven to work perfect (I use 6 coats of wax, no easy-lease, no pva).

So I'm with Ragece for the polyester paint. Much more thin, perfect for molding an existing part.

From my experience, I would highly recommend a test panel before you proceed to your final part when you get new products. Chemistry is sometimes a bi***. I know it's one lost day of testing but it can make the rest of the week go better Wink

I got a question about your part: saw you used spray glue to tack the fabric to the mold. It may not be clear in the pic so: does your part have cosmetic "residues" from the glue? And if not, would you share the brand and type of glue.

Thanks, and keep us posted with your new parts Wink

 



 


    A $1000 electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse
andygtt
andygtt
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Pulled the mould from the buck tonight, please to say it came apart without issue Smile

Will check on the spray glue I used... it did leave some residue on the surface but easily came off and I did lay the glue on a bit thick in places.






SebRS
SebRS
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Nice mould and good job!

did you planed to make all this part in visible carbone frame?

this will be an hard work i guess!

Regards,

Seb.
andygtt
andygtt
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some parts will be visable carbon and I intend to have a strip over the body in raw carbon with laquer on top... bulk will be painted though.
SebRS
SebRS
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Good project.

I read this topic since the begining, i must say i'm really fan of your project!

Question: AndyGTT, why GTT? Wink

Can you give us some detail on your Nobel? i heard this was an english car faster than many supercars...
GO

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