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andygtt
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Ok so time for an update.. dispite the disaster of the bag loosing pressure I went into damage control. Basically I moved the catchpot to a high point and kept the pump on for 24hrs... I also turned the gas heater on full and left that on for 1.5days till the resin had gone off. I am going to paint the clip, BUT I am going to have my trademark strip in laquered raw carbon (changing colour of car), so I spent quite a bit of time making sure the weave in this area were perfect, the last couple of pics show the result  So before the pics lets look at the tech spec... wights Old clip without lights or spoiler 38.5kgs but modified to cut areas out... around 5kgs of filler to make a return edge so lets say its 8.5kgs heavier than normal (being generous and will weigh my original) New clip untrimmed.... 10.5kgs So is the part usable... YES 
Ironically dispite the disater in bagging and pulling the resin the only areas of issue are were I damaged it removing it from the mould... basically Im never using the glue again as it makes it wont release, I had the same issue with the 2nd binnacle were I used glue... so I will be using the spray resin or gel coat method next time.Big thanks to Matt from EC... your products and advice rock!!! |
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pk_090
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This is an absolutely fantastic read Andy. Been checking for updates daily, and this is my first post, which cant describe how awesome this project is! I mean ive started making small flat sheets and im learning as i go along, this is pure crazyness! Alex
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Daz
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this is the back of one of my molds smooth asa babys bum  I also easy lease my split mold joints and also use cheap bathroom sealer
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andygtt
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Group: Forum Members
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cheers for the tips.... I managed to cobble together a bag from the bagging materials I had left, more joins than normal but was going ok and I even managed to get a full seal. I used an old dust sheet on the rear of the mould and it worked perfectly to stop sharp edges piecing the bag... however side effect is if the dust sheet pulled tight under almost full load some areas ripped and the sudden change caused the bag to burst... happened a few times but ended up with a full seal (took all day) and started to pull resin. 2 serious issues firstly the resin leaked through the joints in places and saturated the dust sheet, not masses but enough for me to worry about how Im going to split the mould lol secondly (and worse) the bag developed a leak around 20% through the resin infusion... couldn't locate it either so had to continue with a slight leak, meaning it took 5hours to pull the resin through and part will probably be scrap. I also made the mistake of starting the resin infusion at 11:30pm... so I've had 2 hours sleep lol
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Daz
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Group: Forum Members
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to stop any sharps on the back of my molds i have used roofing flashing tape
It is self adhesive and coated in rubber btiumin
Nakes the mold so smooth
Awesome stuff
£13 10MTRS 100mm wide
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neilb
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i had the same problem with my first split mould, i had some advice from here to say that he used silicone bathroom sealant on the joining flanges before bolting them together and got a perfect seal, it also rubs off after easily. the problem i had was where ever the bag was between the mould and the soft faced tressle it would have a hole
going well though andy watching with interest
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Warren
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You could try taping some breather fabric or similar over the joins on the underside where any potential sharp edges are.
The problem you have with fibreglass moulds, is it only takes one shard poking through to burst a bag. Although one tiny glass strand alone may not cause a massive leak, as the bag pulls it can tear the hole bigger. Hence why you need to spend a bit of time after cutting the edges going over the underside of the mould as well to check for sharp bits etc.
You will get there eventually!
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andygtt
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Group: Forum Members
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I've enveloped bagged... not gone well, spent all day chasing leaks, I missed a few sharp edges on the rear of the mould, had another couple of deep recesses on rear burst and after 6hrs on it and getting close I could hear a very slight leak on the inner mould in the impossible to rear area so gave up. Why did I persevere for so long? because I don't have enough bagging material for a 3rd try  One thing I am going to do is trim a lot of the peal ply so that its in sections so that the receses are easier to manipulate and also make sure the flow mesh doesnt go around any corners so is only on flats. also going to cover the rear with the felt.
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Warren
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Group: Administrators
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With the fact you have soric and mesh, you shouldnt have problems with the resin not wetting out as the soric will help it flow through the carbon.
Also its such a large mould that the infusion could well take well over an hour so plenty of time for the resin to wet out as it goes and plenty of time for you to fiddle and adjust resin flow if theres any areas of concern.
Just out of interest, how have you sealed between the mould parts? or have you envelope bagged it to avoid any leak through issues?
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andygtt
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Group: Forum Members
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spoke to matt and he gave me the same advise... the bag is massive, I pulled a vacume yesterday but after it got close to full vacume the bag burst so I scrapped it and went over the mould rear again and found some sharp areas were it could have been pieced... it looks like it bust on a few of the bolts despite being covered (well mostly lol) so I have taken them out one at a time and fitted much shorter ones and recovered... the new bag is pulling a vacume as I type... takes an hr before I can start to move it into place. I fitted 5 evacuation points... 2 in center front and rear that I will use for the infusion.. 2 additional in high corners near front and one in middle lower part, these are backups that I shouldnt need to use. I am running the resin from high point and run spiral the width of clip... I dont want it reach the front too early as I have a lot of material at the rear to resin out. If it gets a vacume I will find out soon if its going to work lol
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