Cheaper Mould alternatives?


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Junior
Junior
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I want to make a 2-part mould roughly covering 3.5sqmtrs but the overall cost is quite large.

Would it be possible to use a cheaper alternative to the Uni-mould Tooling resin (which appears to be the most expensive part) such as a cheap Polyester resin to bond all the layers of chopped strand mat? Or is there another cheaper alternative to the uni-mould system that would give adequate results?

I don't intend on pulling hundreds of releases, at most I would say 5 in total?
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oekmont
oekmont
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I totally agree that thermal shrinkage could cause even more problems than chemical shrinkage.

But I disagree that we are talking about inaccuracies in a range if thousands of a millimetre. The chemical shrinkage is about a few percent, and the fibre reinforcement reduces that further. But the linear shrinkage is not the main problem. The problem is that this small shrinkage could result in a warped surface, or - even worse - in a twist of your part. This could be very significant if you are producing an unclosed structure (like car hood). In this case the deflection could be several centimetres.
But I case of a canoe you could eliminate the twist during the bonding process, forming a closed structure, wich is much more resistant to torque.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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oekmont (22/04/2017)
I totally agree that thermal shrinkage could cause even more problems than chemical shrinkage.

But I disagree that we are talking about inaccuracies in a range if thousands of a millimetre. The chemical shrinkage is about a few percent, and the fibre reinforcement reduces that further. But the linear shrinkage is not the main problem. The problem is that this small shrinkage could result in a warped surface, or - even worse - in a twist of your part. This could be very significant if you are producing an unclosed structure (like car hood). In this case the deflection could be several centimetres.
But I case of a canoe you could eliminate the twist during the bonding process, forming a closed structure, wich is much more resistant to torque.


Yes you're right, we aren't talking about only a few thousandths of a mm in terms of the polyester inaccuracy, I know first hand just how badly a part can distort. What I meant was that it can generally be handled, and if you can avoid major distortion or surface warping then most hobbiests will put up with their laminate being a bit out - their parts don't need to be accurate to within thousandths of a mm. 

In all honesty, I don't use GP resin for these exact reasons. It is far too inaccurate for me. In fact, I don't even use vinyl ester for final part production, everything I do is with epoxy. But that is my experience using my techniques with these materials, and I know that certainly locally there aren't many people who do things the way I do. 99% of people here, many of them at a professional level, still build moulds and parts with GP resin, some use vinyl, extremely few use epoxy. And by all accounts, they are getting on just fine. So it can definitely be done, but you have to be aware going forward that you are going to have some dimensional innaccuracy. 
Edited 8 Years Ago by Hanaldo
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