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Cheaper Mould alternatives?
Cheaper Mould alternatives?
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Junior
Junior
posted 8 Years Ago
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I want to make a 2-part mould roughly covering 3.5sqmtrs but the overall cost is quite large.
Would it be possible to use a cheaper alternative to the Uni-mould Tooling resin (which appears to be the most expensive part) such as a cheap Polyester resin to bond all the layers of chopped strand mat? Or is there another cheaper alternative to the uni-mould system that would give adequate results?
I don't intend on pulling hundreds of releases, at most I would say 5 in total?
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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
posted 8 Years Ago
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oekmont (21/04/2017)
Are you going to use the mold to produce carbon parts? The i would highly recommend to make a test sample. Because epoxy sometimes releases quite poorly from polyester molds. Even with most release agents excluding pva.
Have you guys really measured the difference between doing the main reinforcement in one shot, or doing it layer by layer? Because if the sounds to me like a good way to get an even "warpier" laminate. In polyester resins, most shrinkage happens during the solid state (reference: prof. Schürmann from the university of darmstadt). So after your first layer you've got a slightly warped laminate, caused by the shrinkage of the resin. After that you apply the next layer. This cures until the resin becomes solid, without warping the pice further, because the resin will flow in a way wich compensates the shrinkage. But after that the resin of your second layer will shrink even more, now unable to flow any more, bending your mold in the same direction as the first layer did. Ever new layer will warp your mold even further. Compared to that, applying all layers at once will result in the same linear shrinkage, but will not warp the part that much. Never tried layer by layer, but in theory it doesn't sound like an good idea to me. At least with regular polyester.
This is largely accurate, however with GP resin you need to control the exotherm. Filled tooling resins like the Unimould tooling resin are formulated to require a certain minimum thickness so that they can exotherm and 'bake' themselves at 60 degrees to achieve their full properties. Regular GP resins aren't designed like that, and so the thicker you build them the more heat they generate and the more uncontrolled the rate of shrinkage.
By allowing it to cure layer by layer, you allow the heat to dissipate and so don't get that uncontrollable shrinkage. Yes, you will still get shrinkage in the solid state - this is the advantage of tooling resins vs GP resins.
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Cheaper Mould alternatives?
Junior
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8 Years Ago
I use regular polyester almost all the time. You just need to watch it for shrinkage. Build it up a...
FLD
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8 Years Ago
Thanks for the reply, would you still require the barrier layer (coupling coat?) between the gelcoat...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
No need for a specific coupling coat either; but it's good practice to do the same light-weight...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
Excellent stuff, that has reduced the overall cost massively! I think I would prefer to use a proper...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
A rapid tooling system like Unimould will produce a much better mould than regular GP laminating...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
Are you going to use the mold to produce carbon parts? The i would highly recommend to make a test...
oekmont
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8 Years Ago
[quote]Are you going to use the mold to produce carbon parts? [/quote] Unsure, may do a fibreglass...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
[quote][b]oekmont (21/04/2017)[/b][hr]Are you going to use the mold to produce carbon parts? The i...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
If the description is true (I guess it is): A: the unimold tooling resin is vinylester based, wich...
oekmont
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8 Years Ago
[quote] B: the coupling coat seems to be a chemical bond between the surface vinylester resin and...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
Thanks Hanaldo, yes this will just be a hobby project so time is not critical and I will not need...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
Yes, i think you will need the coupling coat if you use the unimould gelcoat.. Unimould and Epoxy...
Dravis
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8 Years Ago
So what would you guys recommendas a cheaper 'hobby' alternative?
Junior
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8 Years Ago
GP resin is fine mate, it is the cheaper alternative. Hell, even some big companies still build...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
[quote]GP resin is fine mate, it is the cheaper alternative[/quote] What about the gelcoat/coupling...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
[quote][b]Junior (21/04/2017)[/b][hr][quote]GP resin is fine mate, it is the cheaper...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
I would say it depends: If you are making a large part (the absolute shrinks depends on the mold...
oekmont
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8 Years Ago
The moulds will be used to make two halves of a kayak that will be joined together with composite...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
As you can correct the inaccuracies during the final bonding process this might work well with...
oekmont
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8 Years Ago
Would the following be suitable/compatible? I'm struggling to find anything cheaper.. Tooling...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
I buy stuff there but I wouldn't use the reblend resin. It is just the dregs stirred together....
FLD
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8 Years Ago
So would the top two work together or is there a better alternative? Did someone say you can use a...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
The top two work great, I use them myself. The general gelcoat you've just added works fine too (I...
FLD
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8 Years Ago
[quote][b]FLD (21/04/2017)[/b][hr] Regarding the whole warping issue, I've used the materials you...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
That's good to know it has worked for you, to be honest I'd only be looking to make 2-3 pulls, 5 at...
Junior
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8 Years Ago
I totally agree that thermal shrinkage could cause even more problems than chemical shrinkage. But...
oekmont
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8 Years Ago
[quote][b]oekmont (22/04/2017)[/b][hr]I totally agree that thermal shrinkage could cause even more...
Hanaldo
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8 Years Ago
I thought the chemistry was more complex than that? The chain propagation is also radical based as...
FLD
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8 Years Ago
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