Cheaper Mould alternatives?


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Junior
Junior
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I want to make a 2-part mould roughly covering 3.5sqmtrs but the overall cost is quite large.

Would it be possible to use a cheaper alternative to the Uni-mould Tooling resin (which appears to be the most expensive part) such as a cheap Polyester resin to bond all the layers of chopped strand mat? Or is there another cheaper alternative to the uni-mould system that would give adequate results?

I don't intend on pulling hundreds of releases, at most I would say 5 in total?
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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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oekmont (21/04/2017)
Are you going to use the mold to produce carbon parts? The i would highly recommend to make a test sample. Because epoxy sometimes releases quite poorly from polyester molds. Even with most release agents excluding pva.
Have you guys really measured the difference between doing the main reinforcement in one shot, or doing it layer by layer? Because if the sounds to me like a good way to get an even "warpier" laminate. In polyester resins, most shrinkage happens during the solid state (reference: prof. Schürmann from the university of darmstadt). So after your first layer you've got a slightly warped laminate, caused by the shrinkage of the resin. After that you apply the next layer. This cures until the resin becomes solid, without warping the pice further, because the resin will flow in a way wich compensates the shrinkage. But after that the resin of your second layer will shrink even more, now unable to flow any more, bending your mold in the same direction as the first layer did. Ever new layer will warp your mold even further. Compared to that, applying all layers at once will result in the same linear shrinkage, but will not warp the part that much. Never tried layer by layer, but in theory it doesn't sound like an good idea to me. At least with regular polyester.


This is largely accurate, however with GP resin you need to control the exotherm. Filled tooling resins like the Unimould tooling resin are formulated to require a certain minimum thickness so that they can exotherm and 'bake' themselves at 60 degrees to achieve their full properties. Regular GP resins aren't designed like that, and so the thicker you build them the more heat they generate and the more uncontrolled the rate of shrinkage. 

By allowing it to cure layer by layer, you allow the heat to dissipate and so don't get that uncontrollable shrinkage. Yes, you will still get shrinkage in the solid state - this is the advantage of tooling resins vs GP resins. 
GO

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