You won't be able to simply wrap that with tapes due to the concave area on the bottom as tapes of any kind would bridge across the hollow area and create no pressure to hold things down.

Here is another variation on it.

Lay a single clean piece of perforated release film over the wet carbon and then fill/overfill the hollow section on the bottom with a compressible material like a firm foam that is cut just right to sit within the hollow area, then wrap as said with an overlapped tape as mentioned before compressing the foam just enough and you would then have a nice pressure all over without resorting to vacuum methods.

Vacuum bagging may also work but you would have to be pretty good at getting things just right, pulling the bag tight around the part etc.

This would be section of an actual shape. Black sketched line represents place where carbon should be placed
Approx. dimensions are 75mm width, 35mm height.

Those sharp parts on bottom are actually really small and since wood is sanded, there are no sharp points like that. Bottom groove is deep around 3mm.

Shrink tape is nowhere to be found near me unfortunately.

Thanks for all constructive answers.

I try to avoid using peel ply on things I want to refinish. The texture it applies is quite deep, and can be like trying to recover the appearance from 40 grit scratches. It can still be visible even if you bury it in 20 layers of resin. 

I would do the same process using either a shrink wrap, or just a non-perforated release film. You will still squeeze resin out if you apply tension while wrapping, but you won't get the textured finish so it's often a pretty simple and quick job of sanding out the ridges from the edges of the film with a 180 grit paper, and then a single coat of resin can be enough to get a great finish.

I haven't really worked with carbon yet, only with fiberglass and it was mostly CSM so I have no idea how will carbon act. 

I am afraid that without tacky layer(s) and vacuum, fabric will resist staying in place on those curves with just plain wetting and placing.

Your obviously not worried about excess weight since you are adding all the tacky resin layers.

A straight wet layup without vacuum would likely be lighter.

Those holes will be cut out afterwards so no need for carbon to go in there. 

Can someone explain in detail how would vacuum ruin it if using peel ply and breather just for the sake of expanding my knowledge?

I honestly feel vacuum will make a big mess of this. You'll get resin going all over the place, you won't be able to do it without atleast some pleats in the bag on the surface of the carbon, which will affect the appearance, and it still won't really help THAT much with getting the carbon into those grooves. Atleast not enough to make it worth the trouble of doing.

I would do it wet, without vacuum. At the most possibly a shrink tape, but this will cause the carbon to bridge the grooves, and you may have trouble on the top of the gun where you don't want the carbon to go, the tape may shrink too much and snap there.

Extra resin will affect the buoyancy very little, as it has almost the same density as water.

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There you go guys. Object is actually speargun body and bottom part is that where 2 holes can be seen. Not entire body needs to be wraped, only bottom and sides where most hits and scratches will occur from rocks.

Any extra resin is problem because it will affect buoyancy and thats the main reason why I consider vacuuming it. Also there are some slight curves that might be better done using vacuum.

If this was one layer skinning I think it could be done as regular wet layup skinning, but it needs to be visually nice and with as less as possible extra weight with 2 layers. I am afraid that if I go with layup without vacuum, fabric might float on resin and it will create mess that will be very hard to sand without destroying wooden part.