Your obviously not worried about excess weight since you are adding all the tacky resin layers.

A straight wet layup without vacuum would likely be lighter.

I haven't really worked with carbon yet, only with fiberglass and it was mostly CSM so I have no idea how will carbon act. 

I am afraid that without tacky layer(s) and vacuum, fabric will resist staying in place on those curves with just plain wetting and placing.

I try to avoid using peel ply on things I want to refinish. The texture it applies is quite deep, and can be like trying to recover the appearance from 40 grit scratches. It can still be visible even if you bury it in 20 layers of resin. 

I would do the same process using either a shrink wrap, or just a non-perforated release film. You will still squeeze resin out if you apply tension while wrapping, but you won't get the textured finish so it's often a pretty simple and quick job of sanding out the ridges from the edges of the film with a 180 grit paper, and then a single coat of resin can be enough to get a great finish.

This would be section of an actual shape. Black sketched line represents place where carbon should be placed
Approx. dimensions are 75mm width, 35mm height.

Those sharp parts on bottom are actually really small and since wood is sanded, there are no sharp points like that. Bottom groove is deep around 3mm.

Shrink tape is nowhere to be found near me unfortunately.

Thanks for all constructive answers.

You won't be able to simply wrap that with tapes due to the concave area on the bottom as tapes of any kind would bridge across the hollow area and create no pressure to hold things down.

Here is another variation on it.

Lay a single clean piece of perforated release film over the wet carbon and then fill/overfill the hollow section on the bottom with a compressible material like a firm foam that is cut just right to sit within the hollow area, then wrap as said with an overlapped tape as mentioned before compressing the foam just enough and you would then have a nice pressure all over without resorting to vacuum methods.

Vacuum bagging may also work but you would have to be pretty good at getting things just right, pulling the bag tight around the part etc.