Best way to infuse this part


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Ashfaq
Ashfaq
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Hi can anyone tell me which vacuum bagg is more stiff than nylon?

Ashfaq Hussain
Materials Science and Engineering department
Student
e-mail:ashfaqsamtio@gmail.com
cell No. +92-3235721698
Dennis G
Dennis G
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Here is a pic of the part.....It came out ok....The finish is perfect. no pin holes, no resin pooling and it is quite shiney. The only issue is the weave has some spots where is got distorted. Since I am still learning and this part is for my car it will get trimmed up and used for now. I will probably make another one at a later date and if it comes out better I will use that one and have this one as a spare.
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CF-Tunnel-2.jpg (387 views, 78.00 KB)
Edited 12 Years Ago by Dennis G
Dennis G
Dennis G
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Thanks for the reply's,   Warren...The car this is going in is a full tube chassis drag car. It currently has a removable aluminium tranny tunnel. I am updating the car and making the interior C/F.

I did infuse this part on 1/2/13.....It is still in the mold so I don't know how it looks yet. Putting the layers of C/F was not that hard. when it started to be a pain was with the peel ply, But the huge pain was the infusion mesh. This stuff does not contour well at all....I ended up cutting it in sections and putting in multiple pieces. There was some places where there was no mesh and boy did the infusion slow down alot. Total infusion time was 38min. I was guessing it would take 45 min so it was better than I expected.  I did make this in one piece. I had the infusion point in the middle on one flange with spirial runing the length of the flange then down the two sides to the deepest points.  I then put two vaccum ports evenly spaced on the other side with spiral running the length on the flange. Seemed to work well. Neither side finished way before the other. I just hope this part comes out well.....Really dont want to use up another 3 yards of C/F.

I am 3 for 4 on getting bags to seal. They may not look pretty but the hold.  I had one I just could not get to hold so I had to rip the bag off and do it again. It was such a slow leak I could not find it. I think it was in the bagging material but had no idea where.
_GABBER
_GABBER
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Dennis if your infusion point is posted from mold and fabric, there aren't any blemishes, but you have a lower infusion speed

I do like this and I haven't blemishes 


Edited 13 Years Ago by _GABBER
Warren
Warren
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cool idea!!

I presume the car this is going in is spaceframed or has adequate structural support to cut out the tunnel and replace with carbon??

Great weight saving over steel.
wozza
wozza
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Hi Dennis,
                Your proposed method is a good one I was just making some suggestions that may help you avoid some of the mistakes I have made along the way Smile
You may have the following covered but just some things that may help.

Add some supports to the edges of the mould so that it is like a box. There is nothing worse than trying to position reinforcement/bagging materials into a mould that is moving all over the work bench. Even screw it down if you have to.
Allow plenty of slack in the bag, lots of nice big pleats.
Because your mould is quite deep put something heavy ish (no sharp edges) in the bottom of the "U" to keep everything in place while you trim/tape the reinforcement/ bag around the top flange.
Pull the vac in stages, a little at a time. This gives you chance to move things around and make sure you have no bridging.
And most importantly good luck and I hope it all goes well.

Regards Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Dennis G
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Thanks wozza for the sugestions...You are correct this is my first attempt at infusion. I do understand what you are sugesting but I really do not want a seam on what would be the top of the part. If I need to have one I would rather have it be a two piece tunnel So the seam is a feature and the tunnle is two pieces. Also It would be difficult to do as you sugested since it allready has Gel coat and one layer of glass on it. Unless I am missing something? 

I'm hoping the fact that I am only planning 3 layerers of the following  L1,  5.7oz CF (161.5g), L2  4oz (113g) glass cloth,   L3  5.7oz (161.5g) CF  will make laying the materials easier. I am hoping I will be able to lay the fabrics in the deepest part hold it there then go up over the flange and tape it there, Also I will be able to tape it in the front and back with any luck that will hold it in place and allow it to have enough slack to be sucked to the contours. Probably would be best to use some spray tack but I don't have any of the stuff from easy composites and don't think I want to chance the 3m 77 spray tack. I have read it leaves some surface imperfections. Or do you think it will be necessary?  I am really hoping when this infusion comes out it is finished. I don't want to chance having any blemishes / imperfections from spray tack. I am not planning on any clear coating or anything after.  This part does not need to be absolutely flawless it just needs to be relatively good looking, light weight, and do what it is meant to do, which is cover what needs to be covered. Nothing I need to make will be structural. These parts are for me only at this point. I may make a few parts just to have a spare but not planning on making more than 2 or three.

GABBER......I am not planning on infusion the mold. Just the finished CF part.  I did think of infusing from the middle and having vaccum around the perimeter but I do not want any blemishes from the infusion point.I have another part I may do that with. I will post a picture of that mold when I pull the plug out this weekend. Here is a picture of the back side of the mold.

Thanks,   Dennis
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tranny pan.jpg (544 views, 764.00 KB)
_GABBER
_GABBER
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I haven't understand if you are going to do a mold made with resin infusion, or then the piece with resin infusion...Sorry but I don't speak well english
Anyway, I infuse in the middle of piece, with vacuum lines all around the piece. You can do both in this way. 
wozza
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Hi, the reason I suggest doing the part in two halves was because this would appear to be your first go at Infusion.

The part is quite deep and and fairly narrow making it fairly difficult to lay in the reinforcement and bag easily if you are new to this. If you make the part in two halves you can lay the mould flat on the bench making it much easier. Make the two halves, trim off the flanges where the join line will be, you can use the mould as a guide for trimming. Put the parts back in the moulds and clamp together this should give you perfect alignment of the join line. Now just wet lay some 50mm strips of reinforcement along the join. This way you will only waste half your materials if it goes wrong. The join line will be hardly visible.

Regards Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Dennis G
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Thanks for the replies.... I definetly do not want a split line in the part if I can help it. Especially since where it would need to be is the most visible point of the tunnel. I will do as Matt sugested which is more or less what I was thinking.

IF for some reason it doesn't work my plan is to infuse past half way from each side them do a few inch strip on the top then bond the strip to one half trim everything and use Dzus fasteners to put the two halfs together.

Getting closer to doing my first infusion and I am both excited and nervous at the same time.  I was a neverous reck the other day after I made my first molds wondering if any of the plugs were going to to release and if the surface would look ok. Everything so far is good.

Thanks, Dennis
GO

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