Best way to infuse this part


Author
Message
Dennis G
Dennis G
Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 34, Visits: 837
Here is a picture of a plug with gel coat on it.  What would be your recomendations for infusing this. Keep in mind once this is a mold it will be basically a U-shaped mold. The kick out you can see in the picture is not on the other side. the other side is smooth.  The lowered sections in front and back (left to right) are flange area. The part area is 32" (813mm)long. The max height is 16"(406mm) and the max width is 16"(406mm).

 I really only see two options....

1. Infuse from the side and let the resin go out along the flange in the spiral then go down one side of the U and back up the other side of the U....

2. Infuse from the end and have the resin as it enters have to climb up the walls of the U in the spiral then across the part.....

Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated. Please be specific as to where I should run the spiral.

Thanks,   Dennis
Attachments
Tranny-tunnel-gel.jpg (623 views, 909.00 KB)
Edited 12 Years Ago by Dennis G
wozza
wozza
Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K
Hi Dennis,
                General rule of thumb is to run the spiral along the longest edge so that the resin has the shortest distance to travel. Personally I would be making the part in two halves and bonding them together.

Regards Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 12 Years Ago by wozza
Jack.Strong
Jack.Strong
Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)Supreme Being (228 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52, Visits: 549
2 part mould
Matt (Staff)
Matt (Staff)
Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)Composites Expert (Staff) (5.1K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 680, Visits: 1.9K
Hi Dennis,

Personally I think you should be able to infuse it all in one hit. Gravity doesn't make a huge difference and I'm confident that the resin would be able to climb up the other side of the tunnel if you ran the spiral down one (long) side and then had the vac on the opposite side. If you make a split mould you'll have a flash-line to contend with and split moulds for infusion can be complicated (the seams will leak so you can either seal them shut, gelcoat the mould or envelope bag the whole assembly (like Andy did on his Noble). If you don't need a split for mould release reasons then I wouldn't include one.

We made a carbon fibre tunnel for our kit-car earlier in the year which was a similar (although simpler) shape and it infused fine.

It might be worth using some T-Pieces and having a few vacuum take-off points on the other side because it could be difficult to predict where the resin will get to last. If you hade a vac line on the opposite side at either end and one in the middle then you could clamp off any vac lines that the resin reached early to save drawing through a lot of resin whilst you wait for the resin to reach the last corners of the part.

I hope this helps, Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales
Dennis G
Dennis G
Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 34, Visits: 837
Thanks for the replies.... I definetly do not want a split line in the part if I can help it. Especially since where it would need to be is the most visible point of the tunnel. I will do as Matt sugested which is more or less what I was thinking.

IF for some reason it doesn't work my plan is to infuse past half way from each side them do a few inch strip on the top then bond the strip to one half trim everything and use Dzus fasteners to put the two halfs together.

Getting closer to doing my first infusion and I am both excited and nervous at the same time.  I was a neverous reck the other day after I made my first molds wondering if any of the plugs were going to to release and if the surface would look ok. Everything so far is good.

Thanks, Dennis
wozza
wozza
Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K
Hi, the reason I suggest doing the part in two halves was because this would appear to be your first go at Infusion.

The part is quite deep and and fairly narrow making it fairly difficult to lay in the reinforcement and bag easily if you are new to this. If you make the part in two halves you can lay the mould flat on the bench making it much easier. Make the two halves, trim off the flanges where the join line will be, you can use the mould as a guide for trimming. Put the parts back in the moulds and clamp together this should give you perfect alignment of the join line. Now just wet lay some 50mm strips of reinforcement along the join. This way you will only waste half your materials if it goes wrong. The join line will be hardly visible.

Regards Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
_GABBER
_GABBER
Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)Supreme Being (157 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 41, Visits: 646
I haven't understand if you are going to do a mold made with resin infusion, or then the piece with resin infusion...Sorry but I don't speak well english
Anyway, I infuse in the middle of piece, with vacuum lines all around the piece. You can do both in this way. 
Dennis G
Dennis G
Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)Supreme Being (194 reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 34, Visits: 837
Thanks wozza for the sugestions...You are correct this is my first attempt at infusion. I do understand what you are sugesting but I really do not want a seam on what would be the top of the part. If I need to have one I would rather have it be a two piece tunnel So the seam is a feature and the tunnle is two pieces. Also It would be difficult to do as you sugested since it allready has Gel coat and one layer of glass on it. Unless I am missing something? 

I'm hoping the fact that I am only planning 3 layerers of the following  L1,  5.7oz CF (161.5g), L2  4oz (113g) glass cloth,   L3  5.7oz (161.5g) CF  will make laying the materials easier. I am hoping I will be able to lay the fabrics in the deepest part hold it there then go up over the flange and tape it there, Also I will be able to tape it in the front and back with any luck that will hold it in place and allow it to have enough slack to be sucked to the contours. Probably would be best to use some spray tack but I don't have any of the stuff from easy composites and don't think I want to chance the 3m 77 spray tack. I have read it leaves some surface imperfections. Or do you think it will be necessary?  I am really hoping when this infusion comes out it is finished. I don't want to chance having any blemishes / imperfections from spray tack. I am not planning on any clear coating or anything after.  This part does not need to be absolutely flawless it just needs to be relatively good looking, light weight, and do what it is meant to do, which is cover what needs to be covered. Nothing I need to make will be structural. These parts are for me only at this point. I may make a few parts just to have a spare but not planning on making more than 2 or three.

GABBER......I am not planning on infusion the mold. Just the finished CF part.  I did think of infusing from the middle and having vaccum around the perimeter but I do not want any blemishes from the infusion point.I have another part I may do that with. I will post a picture of that mold when I pull the plug out this weekend. Here is a picture of the back side of the mold.

Thanks,   Dennis
Attachments
tranny pan.jpg (482 views, 764.00 KB)
wozza
wozza
Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)Supreme Being (3K reputation)
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K
Hi Dennis,
                Your proposed method is a good one I was just making some suggestions that may help you avoid some of the mistakes I have made along the way Smile
You may have the following covered but just some things that may help.

Add some supports to the edges of the mould so that it is like a box. There is nothing worse than trying to position reinforcement/bagging materials into a mould that is moving all over the work bench. Even screw it down if you have to.
Allow plenty of slack in the bag, lots of nice big pleats.
Because your mould is quite deep put something heavy ish (no sharp edges) in the bottom of the "U" to keep everything in place while you trim/tape the reinforcement/ bag around the top flange.
Pull the vac in stages, a little at a time. This gives you chance to move things around and make sure you have no bridging.
And most importantly good luck and I hope it all goes well.

Regards Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Warren
Warren
Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)Supreme Being (1.2K reputation)
Group: Administrators
Posts: 214, Visits: 782
cool idea!!

I presume the car this is going in is spaceframed or has adequate structural support to cut out the tunnel and replace with carbon??

Great weight saving over steel.
GO

Merge Selected

Merge into selected topic...



Merge into merge target...



Merge into a specific topic ID...




Similar Topics

Reading This Topic

Explore
Messages
Mentions
Search