part stuck to mold


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Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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HI!
My carbon fiber part got ruined since it got stuck to the mold. I sealed it with epoxy and applied 1 layer of mold release wax. It did not work.
I have to try again and I bought Easycomposites PVA Mould Release Agent »
I will get it in about a week(it's holiday times) but I cant wait to try again and am thinking about using silicon as a releas agent.
Will silicon work as a good release?
Have a great newyear!
Cheers!
Joel

Edited 7 Years Ago by Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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I googled for solutions and found out that I should avoid any wax that contains silicon.
I will use/try Vaseline....
oekmont
oekmont
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You have several issues here: your mould seems to be made of wood and body filler. These are surfaces, wich are really difficult to get a good release from. A coat of 2 component (!) Laquer would be ideal to seal the ge surface.
A single application of release agent on a new mould is very risky. Usually recommended are at least 7 applications with at least 20 min in between.
Wax is a very old school release agent. Today's standard are chemical release agent like easylease. These are superior in every way. Pva is kind of outdated as well. There are only a very few special circumstances in wich i would recommend using pva. Your would would will likely cause problems with tge water based pva.

Edited 7 Years Ago by oekmont
Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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oekmont - 12/30/2018 6:32:01 AM
You have several issues here: your mould seems to be made of wood and body filler. These are surfaces, wich are really difficult to get a good release from. A coat of 2 component (!) Laquer would be ideal to seal the ge surface.
A single application of release agent on a new mould is very risky. Usually recommended are at least 7 applications with at least 20 min in between.
Wax is a very old school release agent. Today's standard are chemical release agent like easylease. These are superior in every way. Pva is kind of outdated as well. There are only a very few special circumstances in wich i would recommend using pva. Your would would will likely cause problems with tge water based pva.

Hi Oekmont,
Thanks a lot for your reply.
I will order Easylease right away from Easycomposites.
Have a great day and happy new year.
Regards.
Joel

Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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Hi again.
We should it be  2 component (!) Laquer?
Will not standard 1 component laquer work fine?
Regards.
Joel
oekmont
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No, 1 component lacquer almost always makes trouble during demoulding. Almost as bad as body filler.

Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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oekmont - 12/31/2018 5:22:52 AM
No, 1 component lacquer almost always makes trouble during demoulding. Almost as bad as body filler.

Like Oekmont is saying, 

- any porous material is the start of disaster. Wood/mdf/foam/stone,... pockets to get your part stuck. 
- primers and body filler are made to grip on the next layer, in your case your part unfortunately, the idea of coating it with epoxy was good, but you probably still had some spots left that were not coated. 
- like above; if you wax, use at least 7 coats with buffing it of every 20min (when dry) PVA is ok but hard to get good results with, Easylease is your solution here. 
- Never use 1K, they are not made to be resistent to resins especialy not polyester resin as the styrene in the 1k will chemicaly bond to your polyester.

How to solve your problems if you are not able to spray a full coat of 2K clear/paint;
Watch the youtube tutorial of EC using the pattern primer and pattern gloss coat. This will seal your mould and you'll be able to sand it easily and get a nice full seal. (let it all cure for 5 days idealy)
Then easylease 7 times and try again Smile 


 


Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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Matthieu Libeert - 12/31/2018 2:49:58 PM
oekmont - 12/31/2018 5:22:52 AM
No, 1 component lacquer almost always makes trouble during demoulding. Almost as bad as body filler.

Like Oekmont is saying, 

- any porous material is the start of disaster. Wood/mdf/foam/stone,... pockets to get your part stuck. 
- primers and body filler are made to grip on the next layer, in your case your part unfortunately, the idea of coating it with epoxy was good, but you probably still had some spots left that were not coated. 
- like above; if you wax, use at least 7 coats with buffing it of every 20min (when dry) PVA is ok but hard to get good results with, Easylease is your solution here. 
- Never use 1K, they are not made to be resistent to resins especialy not polyester resin as the styrene in the 1k will chemicaly bond to your polyester.

How to solve your problems if you are not able to spray a full coat of 2K clear/paint;
Watch the youtube tutorial of EC using the pattern primer and pattern gloss coat. This will seal your mould and you'll be able to sand it easily and get a nice full seal. (let it all cure for 5 days idealy)
Then easylease 7 times and try again Smile 


 
Hi Matthieu Libeert,
Thanks a lot for you reply. It is very helpful.
I now see that my plan of making a female mold directly in wood was not so smart after all.
I decieded to skip the steps by creating a plug in wood and then make a glassfiber mold from that. I can now see why this is a much better solution.

Well, now that I have comethis far I will give it a try again with my wood mold.

It will work if i am more thoroughly with the sealing- and wax-process.

The easylease will take som days to arrive from Easycomposites so I am eager to try the DIY Vaselin-release + turpentine as a release. I will try that and if it works I can post a picture here.
Thanks again.
Have a nice 2019.
/joel

P.S This is the final doublebass with 12 strings.



Edited 6 Years Ago by Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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Big FAILURE and a warning! :-)
Do not make a mold out of wood and do not use Vaselin as a release agent. Buy the proper products and do all the steps needed to make a carbon fiber part.

1. CNC cut or handmake a plug/part from MDF or low density polyurethane foam. Watch this video:
https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/vacuum-bagging-sealant-tape/how-to-make-an-accurate-composite-pattern-by-hand
2.  Make a mold as shown in this video:
https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/vacuum-bagging-sealant-tape/how-to-make-complex-split-multi-part-mould-for-composites
3. Make the carbon fiber part using a sutable method. I will use wetlayup + vacuumbagging.

I learned from my mistakes.
I will now have to start from scratch.

Remember - have fun.

P.S My 2nd attempt was a disaster.



Edited 6 Years Ago by Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
Joel Illerhag
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Question:
Where can I find "Patternmakers' Bodyfiller "

Do easycomposites have a good filler to smooth out the mdf part that I will make?
Edited 6 Years Ago by Joel Illerhag
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