Westfield parts from a newbie

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Westfield parts from a newbie

Westfield parts from a newbie

Author	Message
Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Hi Hanaldo I put release tape along the edge of both halves of the tube handle. (I put tape back on the handle again just for the pic). Stick it with on overlap then use a Permagrit block to sand it back totally flush. Then run a thick bead of glue along all the edges, push them together then I used acetone to wipe the glue off the outside surface. When you remove the release tape it leaves a nice clean finish. I didn't sand or clear coat anything. I also glued 4 blocks on the inside of the handle and 4 on the handbrake shaft, sanded them to give a really tight fit. I'd say gluing tube together like this is ok for non structural things, wouldn't trust it for anything else. This is the headlight in the 2 part mould. The fabric was laid into the mould all in one. It was difficult to get a nice finish where the carbon overlapped itself in a bit of a swirl but I positioned the overlap at the bottom of the headlight where a big hole was cut through it afterwards. The key to getting a neat line where the 2 parts of the mould meet is to ensure when making the mould that the barrier/fence is nice and sharp meeting the pattern. I used a credit card to shape the wax. (Hope that makes sense!). Headlight seems were sanded with 1500 then polished up, no clear coat. I think we should have a thread for multi part moulds! Haha. There must be plenty of people on here with interesting moulds! Craig
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Ahhh I see, thanks for that mate! I am going to be doing quite a few split mold pieces soon, so I'll be sure to post pics of how I get on!
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fgayford	fgayford posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 433, Visits: 1.2K	Nice work Brian. It doesn't seem fair that you skipped all the grief we had in the learning process. That's why forums like this are such a good resource. You can let other suffer the first time grief and learn from our mistakes. Fred
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stuart321	stuart321 posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 37, Visits: 178	Craig - some great work there! On the exhaust silencer can - could you elaborate on the stack you used, mould / tube bag and also where you sourced the heat reflective tape. I'm considering doing 2 silencers on my tarmac rallycar like this as they are tucked out of the way - initial thinking was 200gsm CF, 300gsm kevlar and then 200gsm CF but I also really like the carbon fibre and black aramid cloth (also easier to cut). Thanks Stuart
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Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Hi Fred Thanks for the compliment. Oh I really do know how better off I am with the advantage of this forum. I hated the thought of wasting carbon and resin. I read and read before I did anything. At one point it felt like I had looked at every single photograph of carbon on the internet! Haha. That's why I wanted to post my pics and hopefully help some other newbie. I remember seeing a photograph of you're trike, that looked amazing! My long term plan is get more experience and make all the body work carbon. Hi Stuart Ah, I'll come clean with the exhaust, you found me out! Haha. I bought the carbon tube. I only made the bracket's to attach it by. I bought the tube from PJ Engineering. http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/products.php?cat=5 The tube was too short for what I needed, so I bought 2 lengths, butted them together and overlapped another bit of the tube, glued it all together with high temp resin (Easycomposites). My bracket was slotted into/thu the can so it was supported from the inside. I can't measure the thickness of the tube now but I remember it was really thin, must have been less then 1mm thick. Before it was all bolted up I was skeptical that it would be strong enough but it was. The gold tape was from Demon Tweeks. Think I searched about and they ended up being the cheapest which was unusual. (Still 80 quid tho.....) http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/design-engineering-reflect-a-gold Also used this Accusta fill stuffing. It worked really well. Can't remember where I bought that from I'm afraid. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/exhaust-accessories/acousta-fil-exhaust-silencer-packing Craig
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stuart321	stuart321 posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 37, Visits: 178	Thats great thanks! I'm doing some exhaust revisions on the rallycar and may well replace the silencer outer skin at the end of it as its made with 1.2mm thick stainless steel and at 500mm long and the same again as circumference - that means the skin weighs 2.7kgs in stainless vs 300g in 3 layer 200gsm CF/CF+Aramid. Although its a rallycar its used on tarmac, tucked up out of harms way and the only marks on the existing silencer are mud spatters...
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Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Hi Just a small update. I pulled the transmission tunnel cover out the mould today and was pleasantly surprised. I thought it was going to have two large bubbles due to bridging because after the resin was in I thought I could feel bubbles. I think it must have been the mesh moving about I felt through the bag. It is only 1 layer of 200gsm and 1 layer of 450gsm so it has a bit of flex which helped when it came to removing it from the mould with parallel faces. It weighs just under 500grams (really light) and I've still to cut lots of the extra bits off it. Really pleased with the shapes and finish, turned out as well as I could have hoped for my first large CAD designed shape. There are a few bubbles/holes. I will attempt to fill these with resin and sand back. I've never done this before so if anybody has any tips for this process? I'm planning on getting this part clear coated by a restoration spray shop I've used before so it should look pretty good after its finished. This is the gearstick. Slowly making progress. The next step is to sand back the glue around the two steel pivot points then paint the steel parts black. Then shape the four blocks of carbon and glue them inside the tube handle and use 4-off M3 bolts to secure the handle to the flat lever part. Craig
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wildcard	wildcard posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 40, Visits: 406	To fill the bubbles. Mix a small amount of epoxy. Fill the voids/bubbles. Then cover with flash tape. After cured if you need to sand then go through the grits, and polish. The tunnel looks great. Edited 11 Years Ago by wildcard
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Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	Cheers Wildcard! I'v been thinking about whats caused those bubbles. Would it be the first signs of bridging? I was quite sure when laying up the fabric and peel ply that everything was neat and pushed into corners but when it comes to the mesh I'm paranoid about missing areas and ending up with dry spots so I probably go overboard with the mesh. ending up with lots mesh overlaps and of cuts. I'm wondering if this could cause the mesh to lock together and cause bridging? My question is, does every single area require to be covered with mesh? Or is there something else other than mesh that can be used, something that conforms to tight corners and compound curves better? Can Soric be used as a flow media (above the peel ply)? How many people use MTI hose and is it worth using? I'm guessing MTI hose wouldn't have helped with these bubbles?? Thanks Craig Edited 11 Years Ago by Brian2fast
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Toffee	Toffee posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 36, Visits: 118	brilliant parts mate, really impressed with the pedals.
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