AB Performance Sabre Racer - Complete Bodywork in Carbon


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Teem
Teem
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I thought you might like to see the moulds that resulted from all this:

http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/ttcp/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Left-rear-large-mould-001.jpg


and the whole lot:

http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/ttcp/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Moulds-in-place.jpg


The mould release, a combination of Easylease and mould release wax worked brilliantly.

Lots more detail on the website: http://www.hoverd.org/Tim

Tim
Ragged99
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Tim's put up a new blog post with a little more detail
Edited 11 Years Ago by Ragged99
Toffee
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Very nice work Cool
Ragged99
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Hi All, 
I thought I'd give you an update on our progress, we've had a few problems along the way but today was a very big day.  It was time to release the mould from the buck.


We've made 6 major moulds and 6 minor peripheral ones.  

I have to say the that the Easy Lease and uni mould systems all worked perfectly and the moulds released without any trauma.  It even released from a couple of areas where we had some surfacing issues with either some of the base mdf  or wood showing through.   The whole mould set was released from the buck in About 45 minutes.  And then the buck was dismantled in about the same time.

https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1604551_10201688792918830_1847555119_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1897831_10201688992363816_2104949447_n.jpg

Next items on the agenda are to make yet more temporary fences on the mould margins to cast up the mounting faces and lugs so that the four parts of the main mouldings positively locate together on the car.

The surface finish isn't brilliant so we have a fair bit of mould rubbing down and polishing to do be fore we can use the moulds in anger.

We  think the first pulls will be some quick 2 layer polyester mouldings to act as mould protection covers.

Anyway I thought you'd like to see progress so far.

Adrian
Toffee
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great looking project, watching with interest Cool
Ragged99
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Thanks for the advice all.   We're pretty nervous about the whole fence location business so input is greatly appreciated.    Tim is just finish rubbing down the last layer of tooling primer.   I'll be over there this Sunday and our target is to get the gloss Topcoat on on Sunday afternoon.    The next pics will be up online then

Adrian
andygtt
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This is looking great, can't wait to see it progress.

I'd like to give you a little input as I've done similar to my car recently using the EC system with similar previous experience to you :-)

Leave the buck on the car, IMO this is critical as it's much more important that the shape of the mould is right than saving a little hassle. Think laterally about the areas were the chassis is in the way, it's going to be cut out there anyway so maybe plan to back fill these areas with resin and gel coat and put the fence were you would have wanted everywhere else.

As warren says spend loads of time thinking about the shut lines, direction they will come off, what you will lever against and rigidity give to the part by the joint. 

Spend a lot of time easy leasing then waxing the buck, it's amazing how the gel seems to stick to certain surface like brown stuff to a blanket!

Make sure the workshop is warm when you gel coat and do 2 coats of gel with 12hrs between coats.

Good luck with the whole process, I learned entirely from advice from Matt.
Teem
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Warren,

Thanks. However, the plug relies rather completely on the chassis for support and, as such, it'd be hard to separate! However, Adrian and I had a chat through at the weekend and I think we're clearer now on where the flanges should be. We doubtless have some questions about them, though, which can wait a while.

What we did do was to make the plug green by adding some pigment into the final coat of pattern primer. Hopefully there's just another rub-down requires which I reckon is about 30 hours work. Gulp...

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/95b8481f-f8f7-4844-8338-33ef.jpg


Tim
Warren (Staff)
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Hi Tim,

To solve your flange issue, in an ideal world I'd say lift the plug off the body (if stiffenough) so you have unrestricted access all round.  However, this may not be as practical or easy as it sounds in some cases!!!

However, if you can't do that, its not the end of the world. You just have to go back to think of the purpose of the flange where you have located it. For most processes a small flange of sorts is necessary to give a neat edge to the part so you can trim it and also it helps prevent mechanical lock.  For vacuum processes, it is a little more important as the flange is often also used as the bagging flange and you would need the space to fit the bagging stack so it seals well to the mould flange.  Extra space is particularly important on the vacuum port areas and the resin feed side of the mould.

So not withstanding that, you can be quite creative with fluted signboard when making flanges so you just have to do it the best you can where things are tight.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
Munkee
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I'll be watching with interest - I really like the Sabre and one day might have the time, money and space to build one myself (technically I have the space now, but it's filled with Westfield and the wife would be most upset if I replaced it with something as focused as a Sabre).

Looking good though!
GO

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