Keeping "joined' fabric in place during infusion

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Keeping "joined' fabric in place during infusion

Keeping "joined' fabric in place during infusion

Author	Message
SteveRielly	SteveRielly posted 12 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 4, Visits: 11	Hi All, I've searching through here on keywords, and didn't see this question. I'm looking to make carbon fibre body parts, using the blue carbon weave, where there is a direction of the weave based off the centre line of the car. So looking from the front at say the bonnet, the right side has its weave head up to the right, and the left off to the left. I've seen the odd thread on how to cut the weave to have a clean finish, so the next hard part is lining up the blue and black of the weave in the right directions, something I'm thinking will take a fair bit of practice, and many many expletives. My next area of concern, is keeping the two parts joined in the middle, and not moving while the infusion process is taking place. Now I haven't seen this done first hand, only the YouTube vids, so unsure of the amount of vacuum pressure felt on the fabric, and if there is enough to actually move it out of alignment, or even separate the two pieces. The final product would have the blue carbon on the surface layer, 'normal' black carbon layers, maybe kevlar-carbon for additional strength. Thoughts? Would this even be an issue, or should I use a tape of sorts down the centreline between the surface and 2nd layer to stop things from moving?
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Jack.Strong	Jack.Strong posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 52, Visits: 549	Spray adhesive
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wozza	wozza posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	If you are going to use spraytack make sure that it is compatible with the resin you are using or weird things can happen. The coloured Carbon is particularly prone to movement. The slightest touch can distort the weave. I find it better to apply clear gelcoat (EC GC50 or similar) to the mould, wait until it tack's off (tacky not wet) then position your first layer of Carbon. The gelcoat acts like spraytack and you can reposition the carbon until your are happy with the position/alignment. Any subsequent layers don't really matter as they won't be seen. The GC50 has the added bonus of providing a UV protective coating that polishes well. So no need for a clear coat. If you pull vac in stages, little at a time you can position the bag and keep things in line. Use at least 2 layers of the coloured cloth back to back or the black cloth may show through the blue. Hope that helps. Warren Carbon Copies Ltd Edited 12 Years Ago by wozza
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SteveRielly	SteveRielly posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 4, Visits: 11	Thanks Wozza, very helpful info.....I didn't think at all about two layers of coloured due to possible transparency!!
	Reply Like 2
wozza	wozza posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	No problem. I have learnt the hard/expensive way Attached is a pic of a part using 3 layers of the blue/black carbon if you hold it up to the light it is still semi transparent in places. Regards Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
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SteveRielly	SteveRielly posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 4, Visits: 11	I'm thinking then I'll have to ensure that I also line up the layers correctly, so that the blue is on top of the lower layer blue? Didn't you notice 'discolouration' if much of the above layer black gets in there?
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wozza	wozza posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 688, Visits: 5.4K	I am pretty sure that for something like a bonnet you should be ok as when the upper and lower skins are bonded together and the bonnet is on the car your not going to get natural light showing through from the back. I just thought I should mention that this can be an issue with the coloured cloths, the red is even more of an issue. Good luck and keep us updated on how things progress. Warren Carbon Copies Ltd
	Reply Like 3
andygtt	andygtt posted 12 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 157, Visits: 1.2K	planning on doing my body panels in much the same way... however I will use normal weave pro finish carbon, it will be very difficult to get the coloured cloth to lay as you want as I don't think they do it in pro finish so it will move when you cut the edges. I have used tack spray, but I have found it tends to make the part a little sticky in the mould. I am going to trial my front bonnet using the infusion resin lightly sprayed onto the part and then cloth layed in while tacky. I dont like using gel coats as it means you have a scrap part if anything goes wrong as air will be trapped under the gel and be impossible to rectify. as a beginer I prefer the ability to be able to go to 'plan B'... also the amount of material involved with body panels makes a mistake very costly if the part ends up unusable.
	Reply Like 2