EL160 High Temp Epoxy Laminating Resin mould laminating


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K.C.C
K.C.C
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Hello, I have been working many years with the unimould system but now I going over to the High Temp mould system for the xpreg prepregs . 

I am laminating the mould with 1 layer 100G woven glass than 1 layer 280G woven glass after this I let it set to gell 
han I put 2 layers of 400G woven glass and stop with 1 layer 100G glass to finish.

Are this enough layers for the moulds ? 
And also "why I dont like epoxy " is there a way to not get the air coming up to the high spots in the moulds . 
I make superbike fairings and they got alot of shard , round edges and when the glass and epoxy is just layed down , I dont got any airbubbles but after time the wil show up at high spots . 

This is why I first put the 100G and 280G and leave them to gell first . 
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Lester Populaire
L
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K.C.C - 11/10/2020 8:59:55 AM
Lester Populaire - 11/10/2020 8:17:50 AM
That is probably because of the shrinking of the big resin accumulation in the inside corners where the flanges start. As there is are no fibres there it won't make a difference whether you use carbon or glass...

I assume the gap is closing once you bolt them together?

The shrinking is more on the edges on the part itself and some on the flanges. I need to pull each side "open" to get the bolts in there.
Yes I can stil bolt them together with force so it would be possible to make the parts.
Maybee its the postcure cycle I use my max temp is 125°C
I now bolthed them back together and put them in the kitchen oven for 2H at 135°C .
My cure cycles is 20° 1H ramp 1°/min to 30° hold 1H and so on until 125°C and let cool over night
With othe rparts that got more structures in them I dont got the warping .
same cure cycle etc verry little gap when hold them together

My post cure cycle (different resin system tho) is a lot slower with 0.3°C/min and then a 10h at temp, and then again slow-ish ramp down.

K.C.C
K.C.C
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Lester Populaire - 11/10/2020 9:14:41 AM
K.C.C - 11/10/2020 8:59:55 AM
Lester Populaire - 11/10/2020 8:17:50 AM
That is probably because of the shrinking of the big resin accumulation in the inside corners where the flanges start. As there is are no fibres there it won't make a difference whether you use carbon or glass...

I assume the gap is closing once you bolt them together?

The shrinking is more on the edges on the part itself and some on the flanges. I need to pull each side "open" to get the bolts in there.
Yes I can stil bolt them together with force so it would be possible to make the parts.
Maybee its the postcure cycle I use my max temp is 125°C
I now bolthed them back together and put them in the kitchen oven for 2H at 135°C .
My cure cycles is 20° 1H ramp 1°/min to 30° hold 1H and so on until 125°C and let cool over night
With othe rparts that got more structures in them I dont got the warping .
same cure cycle etc verry little gap when hold them together

My post cure cycle (different resin system tho) is a lot slower with 0.3°C/min and then a 10h at temp, and then again slow-ish ramp down.
This is what was on the datasheet.
The recommended post-cure cycle (above) calls for a temperature ramp
from 50°C to 135°C. If a temperature controller with programmable ramp
rate is not available then the oven temperature can be increased by 12°C
every 2hours until 135°C is reached.
Problem was that my heater in the oven is build for only 80°C and I boosted it out thil I could get to 125°C and the ramp takes really long the higher the temp is going.
Wil need to add heat elements i nthe oven .
But would this warping be caused by cure or resin build up ?

Lester Populaire
L
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K.C.C - 11/10/2020 10:36:16 AM
Lester Populaire - 11/10/2020 9:14:41 AM
K.C.C - 11/10/2020 8:59:55 AM
Lester Populaire - 11/10/2020 8:17:50 AM
That is probably because of the shrinking of the big resin accumulation in the inside corners where the flanges start. As there is are no fibres there it won't make a difference whether you use carbon or glass...

I assume the gap is closing once you bolt them together?

The shrinking is more on the edges on the part itself and some on the flanges. I need to pull each side "open" to get the bolts in there.
Yes I can stil bolt them together with force so it would be possible to make the parts.
Maybee its the postcure cycle I use my max temp is 125°C
I now bolthed them back together and put them in the kitchen oven for 2H at 135°C .
My cure cycles is 20° 1H ramp 1°/min to 30° hold 1H and so on until 125°C and let cool over night
With othe rparts that got more structures in them I dont got the warping .
same cure cycle etc verry little gap when hold them together

My post cure cycle (different resin system tho) is a lot slower with 0.3°C/min and then a 10h at temp, and then again slow-ish ramp down.
This is what was on the datasheet.
The recommended post-cure cycle (above) calls for a temperature ramp
from 50°C to 135°C. If a temperature controller with programmable ramp
rate is not available then the oven temperature can be increased by 12°C
every 2hours until 135°C is reached.
Problem was that my heater in the oven is build for only 80°C and I boosted it out thil I could get to 125°C and the ramp takes really long the higher the temp is going.
Wil need to add heat elements i nthe oven .
But would this warping be caused by cure or resin build up ?

My gut feeling sais it is a little bit of both but it is hard to say and there are other people on here who have more experience with split moulds.

GO

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