Pva application fish eyeing


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moonpie
moonpie
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I have a big plug I'm ready to mould. After so many failures with easy lease I was going to use pva.  The plug is sealed with s120 and has a clean smooth finish. When I apply pva though it fisheyes like its a wax resist crayon picture and I get bad patchy coverage.  Is there something anyone can recommend to prepare the surface for pva application?  I always pre clean with EC mould cleaner so it should be contaminant free...thanks
Edited 5 Years Ago by moonpie
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moonpie
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Hanaldo - 6/27/2020 3:46:33 AM
Why use PVA? If you've had issues with EasyLease and don't want to use a chemical release agent then that's cool, but why not just use release wax and avoid the issues of PVA?

PVA has it's uses, but for me it is only ever when you are using chemicals on surfaces that are incompatible with each other. So when using styrene based gelcoats on single pack or unknown paints, or natural rubbers, etc. But you have a surface that is chemically compatible with anything. So there's no need to use PVA, and it will only marr your surface finish or cause you the application issues you are having now. Release wax on it's own is a great release agent, you don't need the PVA.

I guess I'm a bit nervous about just using wax too. I can't afford to trash the plug in the mould making process as it's taken me 2 years to get the shape perfect. ( I work slowly ๐Ÿ˜). I'll try the meguiars gold wax then and see how we get on. Hope you're right Hanaldo ๐Ÿ˜‰. Thanks for the advice. 

LibertyMKiii
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moonpie - 6/27/2020 11:30:42 AM
Hanaldo - 6/27/2020 3:46:33 AM
Why use PVA? If you've had issues with EasyLease and don't want to use a chemical release agent then that's cool, but why not just use release wax and avoid the issues of PVA?

PVA has it's uses, but for me it is only ever when you are using chemicals on surfaces that are incompatible with each other. So when using styrene based gelcoats on single pack or unknown paints, or natural rubbers, etc. But you have a surface that is chemically compatible with anything. So there's no need to use PVA, and it will only marr your surface finish or cause you the application issues you are having now. Release wax on it's own is a great release agent, you don't need the PVA.

I guess I'm a bit nervous about just using wax too. I can't afford to trash the plug in the mould making process as it's taken me 2 years to get the shape perfect. ( I work slowly ๐Ÿ˜). I'll try the meguiars gold wax then and see how we get on. Hope you're right Hanaldo ๐Ÿ˜‰. Thanks for the advice. 


I had bad experiences using only mold release wax by itself.
My large mold with vertical walls also has been suffering from fish eye when applying the PVA.  I was able to do 8+ light dusting coats with PVA to form a film of PVA.  It worked well and protected the mold.  I wish I could lay down a wet layer of the PVA, but it either fish-eyes or runs...  I know how to shoot a good clear coat on cars so it was frustrating to me to not figure this out...
I like the protection PVA provides so it will remain a love hate relationship.
Hanaldo
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LibertyMKiii - 8/5/2020 10:13:53 PM
moonpie - 6/27/2020 11:30:42 AM
Hanaldo - 6/27/2020 3:46:33 AM
Why use PVA? If you've had issues with EasyLease and don't want to use a chemical release agent then that's cool, but why not just use release wax and avoid the issues of PVA?

PVA has it's uses, but for me it is only ever when you are using chemicals on surfaces that are incompatible with each other. So when using styrene based gelcoats on single pack or unknown paints, or natural rubbers, etc. But you have a surface that is chemically compatible with anything. So there's no need to use PVA, and it will only marr your surface finish or cause you the application issues you are having now. Release wax on it's own is a great release agent, you don't need the PVA.

I guess I'm a bit nervous about just using wax too. I can't afford to trash the plug in the mould making process as it's taken me 2 years to get the shape perfect. ( I work slowly ๐Ÿ˜). I'll try the meguiars gold wax then and see how we get on. Hope you're right Hanaldo ๐Ÿ˜‰. Thanks for the advice. 


I had bad experiences using only mold release wax by itself.
My large mold with vertical walls also has been suffering from fish eye when applying the PVA.  I was able to do 8+ light dusting coats with PVA to form a film of PVA.  It worked well and protected the mold.  I wish I could lay down a wet layer of the PVA, but it either fish-eyes or runs...  I know how to shoot a good clear coat on cars so it was frustrating to me to not figure this out...
I like the protection PVA provides so it will remain a love hate relationship.

Yeh clear coats are formulated to blend and finish flat, PVA is not. Not to say having good spray technique won't help, but it just isn't ever going to lay down that well. Especially when you are spraying it on a mould that likely has a slick surface already, its just asking a lot.

On a chemically compatible mould, wax on its own should be good enough. But it often requires more than the recommended number of coats. If im using wax in its own, I'll do a solid 12-15 coats. Which is why wax is such a massive pain in the ass, it takes a bloody long time. Chemical release agents are much much quicker.

GO

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moonpie - 5 Years Ago
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