K.C.C
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
|
+xYes, thats similar to what I was thinking. It straightens enough also when front end is not on surface, so I think I will place flat surface under half plug from left to center and left right side from middle to hang. Build flange around it and take upper part of mould, turn it upside down and take bottom part. Why is making composite parts so addictive and hard in the same time?! hahaha It just looks good thats why 
|
|
|
Dentex
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 42,
Visits: 1.4K
|
Yes, thats similar to what I was thinking. It straightens enough also when front end is not on surface, so I think I will place flat surface under half plug from left to center and left right side from middle to hang.
Build flange around it and take upper part of mould, turn it upside down and take bottom part. Why is making composite parts so addictive and hard in the same time?! hahaha
|
|
|
K.C.C
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
|
+x+x+xAll clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough  Can you send a pic pls  Its not the best picture but as I told, on both ends it touches the surface, but in the middle of the part it "hangs" to touch surface and that hang results in curved instead straight upper part. My idea is to place support under it to straighten that, take upper part of mould that will "grip" plug in that position so I can proceed and take bottom part of the mould.  I'm hoop I'm thining in the correct direction. I would use for example a other wood plait little bigger than the part and lvl the part out on that plate, hod it in place with screws or if it cant be damaged use a hot glue gun. So you wont move the plug arround anymore when its leveld out .
|
|
|
Dentex
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 42,
Visits: 1.4K
|
+x+xAll clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough  Can you send a pic pls  Its not the best picture but as I told, on both ends it touches the surface, but in the middle of the part it "hangs" to touch surface and that hang results in curved instead straight upper part. My idea is to place support under it to straighten that, take upper part of mould that will "grip" plug in that position so I can proceed and take bottom part of the mould.
|
|
|
K.C.C
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
|
+xAir entrapment in carbon can be really be reduced by using a Bristle roller. Its more commonly seen on wet lay flat sheet production but could be beneficial here as the bristles get between the fibres helping to lift out trapped air. Bristle rolles I never used before , always used normal metal rollers. It can be done but sometimes when you get a part with so many roundings, corners you cant even get there with a roller and if you can , you get the fabric down in one corner, pulling it aways in the next corner. So will you have alot of more shrink when using the first 2 or 1 layer glass like a cuppling cout followed with carbon fibre
|
|
|
Warren (Staff)
|
|
Group: Administrators
Posts: 2.5K,
Visits: 8.5K
|
Air entrapment in carbon can be really be reduced by using a Bristle roller. Its more commonly seen on wet lay flat sheet production but could be beneficial here as the bristles get between the fibres helping to lift out trapped air.
Warren PenalverEasy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
|
|
|
K.C.C
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
|
+xAll clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough  Can you send a pic pls 
|
|
|
Dentex
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 42,
Visits: 1.4K
|
All clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough
|
|
|
K.C.C
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
Visits: 117
|
+xIf I understood you right, you were saying that if fiberglass is used as first layer, you are able to see lifted and dry fabric before adding second layer? I guess you push those parts back when resin gets more tacky with brush or roller and proceed with layup? Not completely the difference is that you can see air when working with fibreglass and so you can make sure you dont got air trapped or dry spots, I stay in the room all the time until its gelled and sometimes yes I put some resin on the dry spots as the resin can stil flow down its still not gelled so you can slowly work it back up from under to above or use some resin if you got some left . As soon its gelled so it wont run down anymore I put the next layers. And I think thats stil the hardest problem laminating carbon parts you cant see air under the fabric if so why would we invest in vacuum, infusion and prepreg
|
|
|
Dentex
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 42,
Visits: 1.4K
|
If I understood you right, you were saying that if fiberglass is used as first layer, you are able to see lifted and dry fabric before adding second layer? I guess you push those parts back when resin gets more tacky with brush or roller and proceed with layup?
|
|
|