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Dentex
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All clear  I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough 
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K.C.C
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+xAll clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough Can you send a pic pls
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Warren (Staff)
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Air entrapment in carbon can be really be reduced by using a Bristle roller. Its more commonly seen on wet lay flat sheet production but could be beneficial here as the bristles get between the fibres helping to lift out trapped air.
Warren PenalverEasy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
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+xAir entrapment in carbon can be really be reduced by using a Bristle roller. Its more commonly seen on wet lay flat sheet production but could be beneficial here as the bristles get between the fibres helping to lift out trapped air. Bristle rolles I never used before , always used normal metal rollers. It can be done but sometimes when you get a part with so many roundings, corners you cant even get there with a roller and if you can , you get the fabric down in one corner, pulling it aways in the next corner. So will you have alot of more shrink when using the first 2 or 1 layer glass like a cuppling cout followed with carbon fibre
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Dentex
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+x+xAll clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough Can you send a pic pls Its not the best picture but as I told, on both ends it touches the surface, but in the middle of the part it "hangs" to touch surface and that hang results in curved instead straight upper part. My idea is to place support under it to straighten that, take upper part of mould that will "grip" plug in that position so I can proceed and take bottom part of the mould. 
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 54,
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+x+x+xAll clear I have one more question which you will know the answer since you already work with those materials. My MDF plug is long and thin, so when it is placed on flat surface, it touches sourface on front and end but middle part "hangs". My question is, can I place something under middle part to avoid hanging, take upper part of mould and then proceed with other mould parts? Will upper part grip plug in postion or it will hang if unsupported? I really hope I explained good enough Can you send a pic pls Its not the best picture but as I told, on both ends it touches the surface, but in the middle of the part it "hangs" to touch surface and that hang results in curved instead straight upper part. My idea is to place support under it to straighten that, take upper part of mould that will "grip" plug in that position so I can proceed and take bottom part of the mould. I'm hoop I'm thining in the correct direction. I would use for example a other wood plait little bigger than the part and lvl the part out on that plate, hod it in place with screws or if it cant be damaged use a hot glue gun. So you wont move the plug arround anymore when its leveld out .
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Dentex
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Yes, thats similar to what I was thinking. It straightens enough also when front end is not on surface, so I think I will place flat surface under half plug from left to center and left right side from middle to hang.
Build flange around it and take upper part of mould, turn it upside down and take bottom part. Why is making composite parts so addictive and hard in the same time?! hahaha
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K.C.C
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Group: Forum Members
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+xYes, thats similar to what I was thinking. It straightens enough also when front end is not on surface, so I think I will place flat surface under half plug from left to center and left right side from middle to hang. Build flange around it and take upper part of mould, turn it upside down and take bottom part. Why is making composite parts so addictive and hard in the same time?! hahaha It just looks good thats why
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K.C.C
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Can somebody tell me if this is correct.
I see the xt135 prepreg tooling prepreg uses 1 layer of 250G and 2 layers of 415G adding up to 1080G m²
So when I now handlaminate 6 layers of 200G twill 2X2 this wil give me 1200G m²
Its for a split mould tube and I want the Tube to keep its form after postcure.
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Hanaldo
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+xCan somebody tell me if this is correct. I see the xt135 prepreg tooling prepreg uses 1 layer of 250G and 2 layers of 415G adding up to 1080G m² So when I now handlaminate 6 layers of 200G twill 2X2 this wil give me 1200G m² Its for a split mould tube and I want the Tube to keep its form after postcure. What is the question exactly? Is 6 layers of 200g carbon enough for a mould? If it is small, then probably yes. A tube should be quite rigid by default because of it's geometry, so 6 layers should be fine.
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