never tried that one, we are using the fibertack and applying a very thin coat just to hold the material in place. And then using es99 to hold the rest in place.

I'd bet that the cleaning removed the spray adhesive from the surface and left you with the spray texture on the part. What spray tack did you use and are you sure you didn't use too much of it? Some (most) of them don't completely dissolve in epoxy and leave traces on the surface. I like to use the isotacker from sicomin against the mould of visible parts, and then aerofix 2 for consecutive layers, as the tack is much better.

Yah I like the fact of keeping vacuum on without drawing out any resin. Will see what we get on these next couple of parts going to try locking off vacuum and allowing more resin to flow in before locking off the resin inlet.

Yeh MTI hose is great for getting the hang of things, you can sort a lot of other parts of the process out while that takes care of more technical decisions like brake zone size and placement. 

Once you've got the process sorted, I find MTI hose an unnecessary expense. You can get the same results without it, it just makes it a little bit more forgiving.

Ok will try that on the next one. We did lock off vacuum line and left inlet open for like a minute or two but maybe will go a little longer. We also switch over to using MTI hose for our vacuum/ exit line. And advice for that product if you have used it before?

My technique varies from part to part, based on what I am trying to achieve and the actual geometry of the part. 

For the most part I agree with Mark and I don't like to restrict the resin inlet, it does have a tendency to cause issues. That said, it depends on the part and the layup - some parts do really benefit from slightly restricting the feed line. So it is virtually impossible for me to say "do X or dont do Y" and it will solve all your problems. 

I suggest trying a part like you have been doing, as it sounds like you are nearly there, but try clamping off the vacuum line once everything is completely wet out and leave the resin feed open for a minute or two. Most of this excess resin will remain in the flow media, so the final part will only be a few grams heavier, but it can make all the difference for that surface porosity.

I would really like to sit down and watch exactly how you do one part, step by step, so I can get down to the bottom of exactly what we’re doing wrong. haha

thanks for your feedback Hanaldo, Yes thinking the part wasn’t fully cured then because the acetone cleaning before clear coated actually didn’t open up more pinholes and dryness look before applying clear coat. We are demolding the part the next morning and cleaning and then spraying clear coat on them. I know some resins are not fully cured for a couple days ambient and of coarse adding heat can speed that up. How do you suggest getting a more resin rich part? Looking for a thicker face layer or resin if that’s possible without putting down a face coat prior to laying down the fabric, and not having to do any coating after the infusion process.

Not quite the right conclusion there regarding acetone and clear coating. If the parts are fully cured, they are completely inert - acetone will not remove any resin at all. It can hurt the gloss retention and dull the finish a bit, which is more evident on the 'high' spots: the tops of the fibres. Once clear coated though, this should not be evident at all.

If you are discovering porosity during clear coating, it was there before the acetone cleaning and indicates a still slightly lean component, or potentially another issue. Infused parts are actually quite notorious for this, they can look so perfect straight off the mould and even with close inspection you often miss the tiny porosity with the naked eye. Once you start spraying clear it becomes very evident. 

I would suggest that your parts are still a touch lean, and if your customers are wanting them clear coated then increasing the resin content would spare you some work and improve the results. 

thanks for the advice again MarkMK We have been getting almost near perfect parts once we lowered our resin pot lower than the mold and restricting the resin flowing in just a little bit. Not to the point where the part looks like it’s starving but just enough to keep the bag tight through out the whole process. We also started degassing the resin upfront seems like that also eliminated a lot of the small surface pitting that we were getting. Those were the only two things we changed and we are getting better results now. Not sure if if it’s one or the other that gave us the results or both of them togeather. I usually like to only change one thing at a time but we just didn’t have anymore testing time, we had to start producing parts. We also noticed that the parts would come out pit free but as soon as we cleaned them up to spray our flat clear coat on them (per customers choice) the acetone we were cleaning the parts with was actually removing resin off the surface and breaking into the fabric and causing surface pores. Needless to say no more cleaning of the parts with knarly solvants.