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Fredrik Welen
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Thanks for your input.. Will the resin get over the corners and bends and to the short sides setting it up that way? The long sides as vacuum and feed..
I set it up this way due to the inputs in this thread.. After looking at severla videos etc.. I would without what has been said here have a vaccum spiral all around the mold and a feed spiral down the middle so there is alwas the same length between the the feed and vacuum spiral. Is that what you mean? I understand completely that it is way faster.. It alot of vacuum spiral around that way though and will that cause any problems? Like if the resin reaches the point of the spiral first that is furthest away from the vacuum port? Is it enough with just one vacuum conection that way?
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Hanaldo
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+xHere is the layup..  The spiral part to the right is meant to be the feed and the spiral to the left is for vacuum. The knifes point out the start and end for the feed spiral.. This I need help with since this is my first infusion layup.. Will this be all go or should I change it some way?? Not that the way youve set it up won't work, but it is always a good idea to infuse across the shortest distance on something of this size... So middle out is ideal, but otherwise putting your resin feed and vacuum lines down the longest flanges and infusing across the part is a better idea than trying to infuse the length of the part. Not only does this make it less stressful in terms of your resin pot life, (the way youve done it will take 2 or 3 times longer, so keep that in mind with your pot-life), but it also makes it easier to keep an even vacuum across the entire part and not end up with a very resin rich side and a slightly lean side. I also wouldn't really advise running your feed spiral so far up the sides. What is going to happen is the resin is going to flow fastest down that spiral, and then make its way into the middle more slowly. By having it so far up the sides, you increase the likelihood of the resin leaving a dry patch in the middle as it cuts off its own vacuum front. You can run it up the sides, but I wouldn't go any further than 1/3 of the distance down the length.
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Fredrik Welen
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Group: Forum Members
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Here is the layup.. The spiral part to the right is meant to be the feed and the spiral to the left is for vacuum. The knifes point out the start and end for the feed spiral.. This I need help with since this is my first infusion layup.. Will this be all go or should I change it some way??
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Fredrik Welen
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Ok.. So I have been back at it.. I got some new polishing stuff and different sanding pads but I just cant get a perfekt finish.. I keep getting small scratcha marks from the orbila sander.. I get better result from wet sanding than dry sanding though.. The 3M soft wetsanding pads were garbage.. They last for a few seconds.. I got some from festool and they were way better but I only got 1000 grit. And the 2000 grit 3m:s just doesnt work very well.. They are expancive though. I tried polich it out as good as I could.. But with just swiping the surface off with a lint free cloth caused some scratches so I gave up.. I think the surface is gloss enough anyway and the very small imperfections could probebly be fixed before clear coat.. Also the gelcoat repair was very hard to get a seamless joint over to the rest of the surface So it wont be perfect anyway.. I did a wood frame for the mold so hopefully it will be stabel during post cureing..
I did 6 coats of easy lease chemical release agent and 2 coats of release wax on that. After the easy lease I still get the cloudy smear looking finish despite that I only uses new clean lint free cloths.. Maybee I use too much?.. I want all the surface to be visable wet and to get that I need to wet the cloth out.. After that I wipe the surface with a new clean cloth.. Everything done in about .5 squere meters.. Maybe when the next section is done it disolves the one did previusly?
I think it will do its job anyway though.
After that I did the layup.. 200g twill, 2 layers of 450 twill, 1 last layer of 200g twill. Pela ply and infusion net ontop of that..
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oekmont
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Well, hanaldo is obviously right here. A quick test on a flat glass sheet is almost always a good idea, when trying something new.
to be honest, I had a problem one time I used specific in mold coating laquer. Wich let me switch to much cheaper standard laquer. The problem seem to be a one off, but ever since I never could find a reason to switch back to the special laquer. Epoxy got quite good bonding characteristics, so it will bond to many materials quite well.
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Hanaldo
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Just do a test with any specific materials you are wanting to use, not all 2k clear coats are the same. There are some that work, there are lots that don't. Delamination is a common issue, given regular 2k clear coats aren't designed to have an open bond window, you are essentially applying epoxy to an unprepared surface and expecting a good bond. As I said, some of them will bond and work well, but lots won't. So if it isn't made for the job then just do a test piece and give it a bit of punishment after demoulding to see how it holds up. Hell, even if it is made for the job I would still do a test before trying something on this scale.
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oekmont
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I can't agree with that. For me it works brilliant every single time. For smaller parts even brushing the laquer into the mold gives perfect results
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Almand
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+x+xThe sanding marks is due to debris clogging the paper.. I will try a few things to get rid of those when I am sandig down the repair I had to do because of trapped air bubbles showing in the surfice after the post cure process of the mold.
I was looking in to the clear gel coat as a first layer but that involves getting a special paint gun per easy composites instructions and the gel coat of cource, and the hazzel of spraying it and I bet that after relesing the final part some imperfection will show and repairing the gelcoat on the final part is something I´d like to avoid. Also my impression was that a regular cleracoat by a paint shop will ad a better UV protection. Also a clear paint will react the same way when it comes to washing the car and polish and waxing and so on.. To me the clear gel coat is adding to much of uncirtain grounds. After some more experiance I might try it out.. The only upside to the gel coat as I see it is that it can be used to stick the first layer of carbon to it. It will also save some time compaird to have a paint shop clear coat it.
But you are using standard clearcoat paint as a first in mold coat? Never heard of it or even thought about it but it will be both pretty cheap and easy.. I will try it on some thing smaller.
Hi Frederik, dont try to apply 2K in mould, We are building kajak, and we have tried to do that with bad succes. You must apply 2K in very thinn mist for many times before the result is good. And even when its good we had problem. The best results is cg50 clear gelcoat, direct in mould and then use EC infusion epoyxy and slow hardener. If its done within 24 ours no problem.. Rgards Keld Denmark type your message Hi Frederik, dont try to apply 2K in mould, We are building kajak, and we have tried to do that with bad succes. You must apply 2K in very thinn mist for many times before the result is good. And even when its good we had problem. The best results is cg50 clear gelcoat, direct in mould and then use EC infusion epoyxy and slow hardener. If its done within 24 ours no problem.. Rgards Keld Denmark
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Almand
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+xThe sanding marks is due to debris clogging the paper.. I will try a few things to get rid of those when I am sandig down the repair I had to do because of trapped air bubbles showing in the surfice after the post cure process of the mold.
I was looking in to the clear gel coat as a first layer but that involves getting a special paint gun per easy composites instructions and the gel coat of cource, and the hazzel of spraying it and I bet that after relesing the final part some imperfection will show and repairing the gelcoat on the final part is something I´d like to avoid. Also my impression was that a regular cleracoat by a paint shop will ad a better UV protection. Also a clear paint will react the same way when it comes to washing the car and polish and waxing and so on.. To me the clear gel coat is adding to much of uncirtain grounds. After some more experiance I might try it out.. The only upside to the gel coat as I see it is that it can be used to stick the first layer of carbon to it. It will also save some time compaird to have a paint shop clear coat it.
But you are using standard clearcoat paint as a first in mold coat? Never heard of it or even thought about it but it will be both pretty cheap and easy.. I will try it on some thing smaller.
Hi Frederik, dont try to apply 2K in mould, We are building kajak, and we have tried to do that with bad succes. You must apply 2K in very thinn mist for many times before the result is good. And even when its good we had problem. The best results is cg50 clear gelcoat, direct in mould and then use EC infusion epoyxy and slow hardener. If its done within 24 ours no problem.. Rgards Keld Denmark type your message
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Fredrik Welen
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 53,
Visits: 478
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The sanding marks is due to debris clogging the paper.. I will try a few things to get rid of those when I am sandig down the repair I had to do because of trapped air bubbles showing in the surfice after the post cure process of the mold.
I was looking in to the clear gel coat as a first layer but that involves getting a special paint gun per easy composites instructions and the gel coat of cource, and the hazzel of spraying it and I bet that after relesing the final part some imperfection will show and repairing the gelcoat on the final part is something I´d like to avoid. Also my impression was that a regular cleracoat by a paint shop will ad a better UV protection. Also a clear paint will react the same way when it comes to washing the car and polish and waxing and so on.. To me the clear gel coat is adding to much of uncirtain grounds. After some more experiance I might try it out.. The only upside to the gel coat as I see it is that it can be used to stick the first layer of carbon to it. It will also save some time compaird to have a paint shop clear coat it.
But you are using standard clearcoat paint as a first in mold coat? Never heard of it or even thought about it but it will be both pretty cheap and easy.. I will try it on some thing smaller.
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