problems with infusing


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Thomb
Thomb
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Hi all, im trying to make some exhaust protectors from carbon. i now made 20 of each and only 5 of them are good enough to use. The problem i run into is that all the flat area's are fine but 2 spots where 2 bumps are, always fail.

Here is the mold, polished and working like a charm. 

https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268356/ArZhK5su.jpeg

This is how every part comes out shiney but always bad on the bumps.

https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268357/tloSmFap.jpeg


So this is what it looks like every time around the bumps/holes:
https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268358/vp5v7LX1.jpeg
https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268359/ddutrUTZ.jpeg


https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268360/sEANTO5h.jpeg




After this i tried it with some rubber gromets around the holes to maybe push the fabric down more but still there. I also tried a fast infusion and a slow infusion but same result.

https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268361/QfsQMW0M.jpeg


But still this as result:
https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268362/kQJEycaE.jpeg
https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268363/kVWbWuoF.jpeg


Does anyone have an idea what i do wrong or can do diffrent? its costing me too much now. I always let the resin sit for 10 mins after mixing. full vac no leaks.

these did work:
https://static.afbeeldinguploaden.nl/1705/268364/CwZGmtCP.jpeg
Edited 8 Years Ago by Thomb
scottracing
scottracing
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The material is bridging. You need to either cut the material as a disc and match the next ply. And you need to force the materila into place under vacuum. The vaccum bag alone will not make the material confirm to that geometry
Hanaldo
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Yeh, gotta sort out the bridging. It's tricky geometry for a twill fabric to go around easily, so it can be difficult to force it into place without pulling it out of place elsewhere. 

As Scott mentioned, one solution is to cut a disc out of the material to give it some relief. This is much much easier if you're working with pre-preg, so you may struggle with dry fabrics. Even a set-weave fabric would be a challenge, though it could be done. 

Another good solution, considering you seem to be producing these in reasonable quantity, is to use either intensifiers or a pre-formed vacuum bag, both of which you would make from silicone. The intensifier is along the same lines as what you attempted with the rubber grommet, but formed to fit your part perfectly and apply pressure in exactly the right places without shifting under vacuum.

Either method would require you to simulate the part thickness, which can be done with calibrated wax sheet or simply by laying up a fibreglass part to the thickness that you require (remembering that for infusion you also need to allow for the thickness of the infusion mesh). Then simply use a brushable addition cure silicone to produce the intensifier/vac bag. Plenty of videos on YouTube on this topic. 
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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Both the suggestions are good and may work.  However you choose to try, the key thing is ensuring the material and bagging stack do not lift from the mould surface.   I would favour a cut disc out of the cloth for this one, then overlap a second piece of cloth for the recess.  There is less surface distortion of the main piece of cloth that way as you are not trying to force the cloth into a raised feature.The inside of the raised feature when demoulded is unlikely to be so visible that it matters if the weave on that piece has slight distortion.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
oekmont
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From your pictures I could see that you've got some pinholes in the flat areas too. From my experience this is caused by unpropperly degassed resin. But there have been a similar discussion before, and most people here think degassing does not effect the visible quality of infusion parts at all. But from all the research I've done, I am pretty sure it does.
Thomb
Thomb
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Warren (Staff) (31/05/2017)
Both the suggestions are good and may work.  However you choose to try, the key thing is ensuring the material and bagging stack do not lift from the mould surface.   I would favour a cut disc out of the cloth for this one, then overlap a second piece of cloth for the recess.  There is less surface distortion of the main piece of cloth that way as you are not trying to force the cloth into a raised feature.The inside of the raised feature when demoulded is unlikely to be so visible that it matters if the weave on that piece has slight distortion.


how big would you advice to make the cut? the complete hole or partial?
GO

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