Carbon fiber roof - making the mold


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Dravis
Dravis
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Depending on the type of "canvas" it may work just fine ..   It will add some strength, but not nearly as much as glass-fibre..

What you should have bought at the local hardware store is  "Wall -glass mat"  of the cheapest type without any primer or binder in ..

Works a treat  with Epoxy ... and its cheap ..  No idea how it would work with Polystyrene though- --

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

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103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Well what's the modulus of canvas? Denim is a cotton fabric and will absorb a lot of resin but it doesn't have any strength. Don't forget that resin itself is very weak, it's the fibreglass that makes things strong/stiff. 

I could be wrong, it might have quite a high modulus. I suspect though that you may have unfortunately just made the mould heavier without really adding a lot of stiffness. I'll be interested to see how well it works! If you do find it is still too flexible, just use timber to stiffen it up, easily done and very little material costs. 
BlackNDecker
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It's a heavy cloth that saturates with resin...any reason why it wouldn't work?



BTW, this forum has become unusable on my iPhone. If I click on a specific thread when browsing within the subforums, it routes me back to the main page. Fortunately, this page is bookmarked in my mobile's browser otherwise I wouldn't be able to return here either.
Edited 10 Years Ago by BlackNDecker
Hanaldo
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Canvas? Interesting. Haven't heard of that being used in composites before? 
BlackNDecker
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Thanks for all the help. I took your advice and applied two more layers of heavy CSM then heavy weight canvas I bought at the local hardware store.




Edited 10 Years Ago by BlackNDecker
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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A lot of effort to go through for little reason. Firstly, the first layer behind the gelcoat is the critical one that you don't want voids behind. The gelcoat is what needs the support, after that first layer any voids in the mould aren't too critical. Obviously this is within reason, you don't want large areas of bridging or large/lots of voids. But regular laminating techniques, so good stippling with the brush and then going over the entire mould with a roller, will ensure that those voids don't occur. 

Secondly, you haven't got any angles there that 450g csm couldn't easily conform to. In fact, I don't see anything there that even a 850g couldn't cope with, with a bit of rolling.  Smoothing that transition out isn't worth the time and effort you out into it. Just go on with the csm.

If I might make a suggestion, that panel is quite large and flat. So I think you will find that the usual mould layup of 4-5 layers of 450g csm will still be a bit flexible. Couple options you have, one is just to live with the flex and hope it doesn't flex under vacuum and result in a distorted panel. Another option is to put  a few extra layers of 450 on. But what I would do, to save resin/expense/weight, is do 2 layers of 450g csm and then 2 layers of 850g woven rovings, followed by another layer of 450 csm. Let that cure, then if it still isn't rigid enough, laminate some stiffeners onto the back (12mm mdf is my choice, can also use cardboard tube cut in half, coremat, etc) in the direction of the flex. 

Not sure if EC have 850g woven fibreglass, they might not. In that case just go with 5-6 layers 450 and then the stiffeners on the back if they are needed. 
BlackNDecker
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Thanks.

I think I'm going to smooth out the transition all around the perimeter with long-strand kitty hair putty. I think this will make it easier to lay down the CSM without voids. Has anyone ever attempted this in the mold lay up?
Hanaldo
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Looking good. 
BlackNDecker
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Sanded the whole mold down and filled some voids with Duraglas...

BlackNDecker
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I used a slurry of chopped glass fibers mixed with resin and worked it into the corners all the way around.
GO

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