I'm making some fairly large panels for a motorcycle project for the full fairing, seat etc and so far have had pleasing results. I'm using three layers of 1x200 and 2x 450 carbon twill and resin infusion.
The moulds are multi part moulds made using the unimould system. Before laying up the carbon and bagging it I have applied four coats of easylease with 15-20 minutes between each and then a final fifth layer that is left for at least an hour before infusion.
I've watched Matt on all of the easycomposites videos demoulding parts and it looks effortless. Firstly when I'm removing the peel ply, it's really hard to do. Matt tears his in strips and it comes right off whereas I have to use all my strength to get it of free the carbon part and I'm no weakling! Then, where Matt's parts virtually pop out of the mould, mine need dozens of polypropylene wedges knocking into cracks to get it to come out. This Is largely, bar a few details, a flat panel and it takes me about 2 hours to free it.
On two of the five things I've made, part of the mould has come off with the part meaning major repairs if I wants to use the mould again.
I believe I've followed the instructions for easy lease to the letter but demoulding is a nightmare. What am I doing wrong or does Matt in the video just have superhuman finger strength?! Any suggestions appreciated as I'm about to move on to the complicated nose cone and want to get that out more easily. Thanks.

24 hours is the minimum time before demould, and it is only enough time if the ambient temperature never drops below 25 degrees. If it gets cooler than 25 in those 24 hours, then it is best to wait 36 or 48 hours before demoulding. To be honest, I prefer to leave ambient cured parts in the bag for a week to reduce the level of fibre print through that occurs. Or do an elevated temperature cure.

As for peel ply removal, that is actually always a difficult task. It depends a lot on the geometry of your components, the consumables on a complex part will be significantly harder to remove than on just a flat sheet. Also if you have pleats or overlaps in the infusion mesh where it becomes multiple layers thick, this can be even more difficult to remove. My advice is to use plastic release film between the peel ply and the infusion mesh (EC's bread wrap is great for this). Then you can generally remove the flow mesh quite easily, which in turn makes it much easier to remove the peel ply. Again, complex geometry makes this more difficult, but it does help.