first split mould

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first split mould

Author	Message
111mattin111	111mattin111 posted 9 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 67, Visits: 910	I've just done my first split mould nothing complex we but the original part undercuts itself so would cause it to lock Now my question is do it lay the carbon in side in one piece or in two creating an overlap where the moulds meet Also where the moulds meet will this not cause an air leak when vaccum bagging?
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*VVS*	*VVS* posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Moderators Posts: 226, Visits: 334	Looking good. How you lay the cloth is up to you, if you think one piece will go in then fine, if you want to run the weave in different ways for a certain look then put more cuts in, what ever works best. If it's structural then the orientation is more critical. You will have a leak at the join so simply apply release agent to the joint faces then use a silicon sealant around the perimeter before bolting the two parts together. Be careful what type of sealant you use as this affects how good a join you get, First one I did I used a cheap diy window sealant and the mould simply wouldn't pull together neatly, Second I got was softer and worked better but still left a large ish ridge so I treated myself to some Loctite SI5926 blue silicon, this can be put on nice and fine and gives a really nice tight neat join that pulls apart easily, Little more expensive than the large gun type sealant but i recommend it 100%.
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111mattin111	111mattin111 posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 67, Visits: 910	Thanks i thought some kind of sealant might be used I'm think one piece should be fine the part isn't structural it's just a bolt on part I'll update once I've made the part ☺
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Be careful with silicone sealant as VVS mentioned. You want the gasket-maker type RTV that you would find at an automotive store, not the gutter/window/shower type sealant that you would get from a hardware. The wrong silicone will glue your mould pieces together regardless of what release agent you use (unless you're using PVA of course) and takes some effort to get apart. Also be sure to let the silicone cure before you layup or try to pull a vacuum on the part. Otherwise you risk not only a leak, but forcing the silicone out of the gap and on to your material. You can easily do this part in one piece.
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delcarlo	delcarlo posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 1, Visits: 17	heya, looks like a 300zx nose panel! how are you getting on with carboning the Z? ive seen youve been tackling the boot, doors and fenders I made the nose panel in a single piece mould.. you can tell the factory one was made in a single piece, its usually the easiest way to tell if it will release or not.. Nissan already took the guesswork out for you you have any more pics of the car?
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