I had similar problems.




I got my best results by changing into vinilester clear gelcoat. It´s made for that use and simply doesen´t open. In a second term it cures in about 30 min, and so there is Little choice/time to open...

thanks for all your help. I did what FLD suggested in this last post with the pinholes. Just flood them with lacquer and i got good result altough a lot of time to do it. Lacquer, sand, lacquer sand and so on...

I do a fair bit of wetlay / vacbag stuff.  I have also encountered this problem.  Firstly the layer of resin, yeah it does that!  Its just beading on the release agent.  If its gelcoat you can do as mentioned and wait for it to thicken up a bit and it should spread OK.  If its resin and you're wanting to laminate straight away then its just how it is but don't be disheartened!

Secondly the bubbles in the surface.  Woven cloths wet out sooooo much easier than CSM in my experience and its easy to think its properly wet / consolidated.  This will give the little bubbles in the surface!  You really do need to work the resin through the cloth thoroughly in order to stop these bubbles.  This is key!  You may still get one or two on the cross over of the weave pattern (pinholes).  These are a PITA.  If you try to apply resin straight to it then you will get fish-eyes around the pin hole due to the change in surface tension.  I use a different method to fill them.

Pinholes- I use a highly thinned 2-pack lacquer and a brush to work the lacquer right into the pinholes. It takes a few coats but works.  Then spray it.  Dust on coats and let it tack in between until you get a full film and then lay down full coats.  If you film it straight away then you will get fish eyes again. 

Keep trying, you'll get there!

From my experience wet lay up will never yield perfect cosmetic parts alway hit and miss,infusion is better but not    Always perfect either,regarding your laminating after because your adding resin,use 80 to 120 even if you cut into  the Carbon dont worry resin is viscous enough to fill scratchs left and using these grades,and gives the surface a good bonding surface just remember to clean with acetone or sp Solent A and clean down,good luck. 

What I think your problem is on the second picture is that you did not clean the part so there was still release agent on the part causing the same problems you have in your mould...

Hi looking at the second picture this looks like what you call fish eyes, there is maybe silicone or some other product on the part that is causing a reaction, you get the same effect when painting a car panel that has come into contact with a silicone product i.e. polish or cleaning agent, maybe someone else with the knowledge could I am only going by the picture and basing it on what it looks like rather than experience of resins 

It´s a possibility in this last photo as i wasn´t to cautious with the cleaning. was just a test. But when i apply to the mould there is a release agent there so is it normal to do like this? If you see the carbonmods video about laminating you can see the this doesn´t happen! And if i donºt have a proper coat of resin i will have pinholes in the part!

everything is simple i have same nonsence!

i tried to apply a coat on top of the part just to see the result and the same thing is happening. That´s what i get in the mould also. I can´t get an even coat of resin.

Thanks for your answer.