Great, thank's Warren!
I was actually thinking of ordering some mesh anyway, just to be shure that there will be no problems with the infusion. So now, I'm totally shure of ordering mesh!!

Thank you!

For such a large infusion, I'd be tempted to use infusion mesh everywhere, just because for a few pounds in cost, you have peace of mind that you know you won't have resin flow issues.

You will need some mesh to bridge the edges that have no Soric.

Soric as a flow media is slightly slower than mesh so for such a large part, having mesh might be a better idea.  You can always slow down the resin flow by restricting the feed line, however if its too slow there is little you can do!

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

I'm now ordering from Easy Composites and was wondering about one thing.
If i will use Soric between a layer of carbon fiber and Diolen, do I need to put another layer of resin infusion mesh between the Diolen and the vacuum bagging film?
It says in the description for Soric that you dont need infusin mesh but since I use the Soric between two other layers I maybe need it anyway?

Thank's for your help!

/Staffan

Wow, that's exactly what I was looking för, great! Thanks Warren!

now I've out that One on my list of things to order from you hits!

i found this--
he seems to be a very experienced maker--





http://www.youtube.com/user/guillemot12?feature=watch

CarbonFiberCreations

FlutedSign Board is ideal for making flanges for the mould. Stick it on using a hot glue gun.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

Thanks again Warren. makes me happy to hear that the smaller pump will work.

So, I will start by making a mold of the plug which I will probably use my tape to cover the small holes are the owner of the plug want holes left. I'll use the gel coat to get a smooth surface in the mold and then I fill the small brands that will be after the tape.
I will have to reinforce the shape with regular studs to prevent it failing, or fold when it's going to be very long (6.20 m).

I have a problem I have not really solved yet. How can I make extra edges of the pan so I can fit to attach vacuum tubes, pejp etc. I want them to be 90 degrees out of shape and it would be best to use something that could support this up in a good way. Anyone have an idea?

Once the form is completed, I use 400g plain carbon fiber as the outermost layer, inside it is a 2mm layer of Soric appears to be excellent for resin infusion. At the back I put a layer of 300g diol to ännnu better strength in surfskin'n.

I will use resin infusio technology and will not need the infusion mesh because I use Soric. I will have three tubes for the resin infusion and resin infusion, a spiral tube in the middle of the mold where the resin three tubes will be connected. Then I will be able to control the resin in a good way I hope.
Around the mold, on the edge as I mentioned before I put the vacuum tube thatwill have two connection points for a smoother flow.

When the deck and hull are ready, they will be joined with kevlar tape 2.5 mm in a number of layers. This will be an exciting phase because I can not access the inside of surfski'n.
I will, after possibly evened out the edges of the hull and deck, tape deck and hull together with strong tape to hold them in place while I join, it may take place in two phases.
But before this I have to pull the plastic tubing for cables to the rudder. They will be drawn inside and I will try to attach them with epoxy and micro balloons, I hope it holds.

To get an attachment for the helm, I will glue the foam in katern on both deck and hull. When I joined the parts, I will drill the top to attach a metal tube that is plugged into the base through the deck and into the foamThe rudder will then be mounted in the metal tube.

A surfski has footpads where it attaches to your feet and which also controls the rudder. There will be some work with them but it's still details compared to hull and deck so it does not worry me so much.

I will try to take some pictures while I built the kayak and share some of the lessons I have in the meantime. Maybe it can help someone in the future.
However, it will take place under Projects / Water Crafts, I think the title is called.
Obviously, comments, tips and ideas more than welcome.

Unfortunately I have to go abroad with my job first but I will place an order this week so that I have all the material when I get home again.

OK, have a good weekend everyone!

Ask away, its the only way you find out.  In my head the only stupid question is the one you dont ask.

The standard pump will be sufficient for your needs.

The video has 3 resin feed lines which is a better way of doing it than the one line of spiral down the middle as you can control each of the feed lines to get the resin where you want it.  Id have a vacuum port on each side of the canoe so that the vacuum is relatively even around the edge if you do it that way.

In terms of covering holes on the "plug" or "pattern" from which you are moulding, it depends on the desired finish.  You could just use flash breaker tape, but you'd get a slight dimple and would see the tape edge on the mould. Or you could fill it with wax or plasticine and smooth the surface level.  That way when you polish up the mould you should not see the hole.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

I'm sorry guys for all my questions but it is so good to get help from guys like you with knowledge and experience!
If I'm going to make a mold of something that has small holes in it, how do I best to cover these holes? Is there a good tape that you can use or should I take some silicone?

Thanks!