Making a hole new kayak (surfski)


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FLD
FLD
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staffan_w (04/03/2013)
FLD (02/03/2013)
I've paddled for years and sandwich constructed boats are FAR more rigid than a non cored boat.  The downside is that they are harder to repair if you bash one.  As far as reinforcement type I've had boats made from everything from spread tow cloth to diolen.  Ultimately carbon will be more rigid but carbon kevlar will give you a little more durability.  My last boat was carbon/foam/carbon-kevlar. 


OK, I
realized that I have only paddled "regular" kayaks and no surfski's and these have rarely been out of the sandwich construction is. But I agree emd you, it's obvious stronger. The question is how much weight increases, I have seen that the Easy Composites has different core materials.
Something I'm a little worried about is exactly how I'm going in a good way to get together and decks. It becomes extremely thin edges to be joined. It will be that much easier with a sandwich kostruktion!


It is a pain to join deck to hull.  Most common method I've seen is to gaffer tape the two halves together and make the inside join then remove the tape and make the outside join.  Its common for 6 or more layers of kevlar tape to be used on the seams.  You will have to poke the tape down with a stick and use a brush taped to a pole to apply the resin.  Not easy!

WRT weight I believe the lightest core material would be PVC foam but this may be awkward to use with infusion.  You can either infuse one skin, bond in the foam then infuse the next skin OR drill lots of holes all over the foam and infuse in one go. 

It might be worth looking out for a local slalom event and going along to look at boats.  Get a good idea of what you want to make yours from before you spend out.
staffan_w
staffan_w
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FLD, so good to hear your tips and tricks!

Yes, it is joining the hull to deck as I am concerned, especially when my design, surfski, are a closed design so I will not have access to the inside!
But, I've looked a lot on different  core materials after what you wrote earlier and found "Soric" which is a core material apparently withstand vacuum infusion without compressing and it has channels that distribute the resin in a good way. You do not even use the infusion mesh if you use Soric, sounds really good for my project!

staffan_w
staffan_w
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Now I found a youtube clip where they make use of the arrangement of the infusion that I was going to use.

T
hey add a spiral tube around the hole boat that distributes vacuum suction and then puts a resin distribution tube in the bottom of the mold.
I want to really make this work, otherwise I'm gonna destroy quite a lot of material! =)

So, my only question now, will the vacuumpump ECVP425 for 169,95 exl. VAT
be enough for the job, I really hope so because that's the only one I can afford! Wink


staffan_w
staffan_w
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I'm sorry guys for all my questions but it is so good to get help from guys like you with knowledge and experience!
If I'm going to make a mold of something that has small holes in it, how do I best to cover these holes? Is there a good tape that you can use or should I take some silicone?

Thanks!

Edited 11 Years Ago by staffan_w
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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The standard pump will be sufficient for your needs.

The video has 3 resin feed lines which is a better way of doing it than the one line of spiral down the middle as you can control each of the feed lines to get the resin where you want it.  Id have a vacuum port on each side of the canoe so that the vacuum is relatively even around the edge if you do it that way.

In terms of covering holes on the "plug" or "pattern" from which you are moulding, it depends on the desired finish.  You could just use flash breaker tape, but you'd get a slight dimple and would see the tape edge on the mould. Or you could fill it with wax or plasticine and smooth the surface level.  That way when you polish up the mould you should not see the hole.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
FLD
FLD
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staffan_w (05/03/2013)
I'm sorry guys for all my questions but it is so good to get help from guys like you with knowledge and experience!
If I'm going to make a mold of something that has small holes in it, how do I best to cover these holes? Is there a good tape that you can use or should I take some silicone?

Thanks!


Ask away, its the only way you find out.  In my head the only stupid question is the one you dont ask.
staffan_w
staffan_w
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Thanks again Warren. makes me happy to hear that the smaller pump will work.

So, I will start by making a mold of the plug which I will probably use my tape to cover the small holes are the owner of the plug want holes left. I'll use the gel coat to get a smooth surface in the mold and then I fill the small brands that will be after the tape.
I will have to reinforce the shape with regular studs to prevent it failing, or fold when it's going to be very long (6.20 m).

I have a problem I have not really solved yet. How can I make extra edges of the pan so I can fit to attach vacuum tubes, pejp etc. I want them to be 90 degrees out of shape and it would be best to use something that could support this up in a good way. Anyone have an idea?

Once the form is completed, I use 400g plain carbon fiber as the outermost layer, inside it is a 2mm layer of Soric appears to be excellent for resin infusion. At the back I put a layer of 300g diol to ännnu better strength in surfskin'n.

I will use resin infusio technology and will not need the infusion mesh because I use Soric.
I will have three tubes for the resin infusion and resin infusion, a spiral tube in the middle of the mold where the resin three tubes will be connected. Then I will be able to control the resin in a good way I hope.
Around the mold, on the edge as I mentioned before I put the vacuum tube thatwill have two connection points for a smoother flow.

When the deck and hull are ready, they will be joined with kevlar tape 2.5 mm in a number of layers. This will be an exciting phase because I can not access the inside of surfski'n.
I will, after possibly evened out the edges of the hull and deck, tape deck and hull together with strong tape to hold them in place while I join, it may take place in two phases.
But before this I have to pull the plastic tubing for cables to the rudder. They will be drawn inside and I will try to attach them with epoxy and micro balloons, I hope it holds.

To get an attachment for the helm, I will glue the foam in katern on both deck and hull. When I joined the parts, I will drill the top to attach a metal tube that is plugged into the base through the deck and into the foamThe rudder will then be mounted in the metal tube.

A surfski has footpads where it attaches to your feet and which also controls the rudder. There will be some work with them but it's still details compared to hull and deck so it does not worry me so much.

I will try to take some pictures while I built the kayak and share some of the lessons I have in the meantime. Maybe it can help someone in the future.
However, it will take place under Projects / Water Crafts, I think the title is called.
Obviously, comments, tips and ideas more than welcome.

Unfortunately I have to go abroad with my job first but I will place an order this week so that I have all the material when I get home again.

OK, have a good weekend everyone!

Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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FlutedSign Board is ideal for making flanges for the mould. Stick it on using a hot glue gun.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
brasco
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i found this--
he seems to be a very experienced maker--





http://www.youtube.com/user/guillemot12?feature=watch



CarbonFiberCreations



Edited 11 Years Ago by brasco
staffan_w
staffan_w
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Warren (Staff) (08/03/2013)
FlutedSign Board is ideal for making flanges for the mould. Stick it on using a hot glue gun.





Wow, that's exactly what I was looking för, great! Thanks Warren!

now I've out that One on my list of things to order from you hits! Wink
GO

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