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Dsully
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Group: Forum Members
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Hi guys. I've just poured my first river table with some nice oak. I Maybe didn't leave enough time between pours as the temperature is 13/14 degrees. It was probably too sticky still. Anyways its shrunk and I need more resin to Complete the table. It's my first time ever working with resin. If anyone has tips about pouring onto an already cured river would be greatly appreciated. Be it sanding etc. Thanks, Daniel
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Bhamoggy
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Group: Forum Members
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I had a similar issue a few weeks back so you should be able to find my post easy enough. Temp should be 20 degrees for glasscast 50.
Will be fine though so just scratch it up with some 240 grit paper
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Dsully
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Group: Forum Members
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+xI had a similar issue a few weeks back so you should be able to find my post easy enough. Temp should be 20 degrees for glasscast 50. Will be fine though so just scratch it up with some 240 grit paper Thanks for your response mate. Temperature not convenient alright its averaging around 14. Its under my house so have no choice really. Next one will be better. 240 grit it is👌👌👍👍
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Rich (Staff)
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Hi Dsully, As I'm sure you know, the best option is actually to pour subsequent layers when the previous has reached the 'B' or 'Tack' stage of cure whereby the resin feels tacky to the touch but, when wearing gloves, no residue is lifted off on your fingertips, however, if this stage is missed then you need to wait for full cure and once fully hardened, abrade the surface with a 120-240grit abrasive paper, remove any dust and then pour the subsequent layer. The new layer will infill all of the surface scratches left in the keying process to again give a seamless bond.
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Dsully
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 5,
Visits: 19
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+xHi Dsully, As I'm sure you know, the best option is actually to pour subsequent layers when the previous has reached the 'B' or 'Tack' stage of cure whereby the resin feels tacky to the touch but, when wearing gloves, no residue is lifted off on your fingertips, however, if this stage is missed then you need to wait for full cure and once fully hardened, abrade the surface with a 120-240grit abrasive paper, remove any dust and then pour the subsequent layer. The new layer will infill all of the surface scratches left in the keying process to again give a seamless bond. Thanks alot for the advice Rich, much appreciated 👍
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Dsully
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 5,
Visits: 19
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+xHi Dsully, As I'm sure you know, the best option is actually to pour subsequent layers when the previous has reached the 'B' or 'Tack' stage of cure whereby the resin feels tacky to the touch but, when wearing gloves, no residue is lifted off on your fingertips, however, if this stage is missed then you need to wait for full cure and once fully hardened, abrade the surface with a 120-240grit abrasive paper, remove any dust and then pour the subsequent layer. The new layer will infill all of the surface scratches left in the keying process to again give a seamless bond. Hi mate, what would you recommend to Clean it with after removing the dust
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Warren (Staff)
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Wipe down with a damp cloth will remove any dust, however an IPA wipe or acetone will work well especially if there is any other dirt.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Dsully
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Group: Forum Members
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+xWipe down with a damp cloth will remove any dust, however an IPA wipe or acetone will work well especially if there is any other dirt. Cheers mate
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Graham Burdett
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Group: Forum Members
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hi, i did my first river table and left to dry for a week. its 30 mm deep, i did it in 3 pours. top seemed dry and hard but when i flippy the work over to remove the plastic sheet i had laid it on its very sticky, obviously a bad mix or temperature issue, any ideas how to get the sticky mess off. its a nightmare, please help
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Warren (Staff)
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Group: Administrators
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First of all try and get some heat onto the area to try and see if heat helps it cure off better. If not, if its just surface tack, purple methylated spirits can help remove the tack. Failing that you may need to sand through the tack to the resin underneath which hopefully should be good.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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