How to get a gloss finish on my 3D printed mould


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Matteo Dapporto
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Good afternoon

I've read all the topics in this forum but I'm still confused so I kindly ask an help.

I’m experimenting the production of a compression mould by using my 3D printer.
The part I want to manufacture is made by Carbon fiber and has 1.2mm thickness. I want to cure it at room temperature at the beginning and if everything is OK I will cure in a oven at 60°C in the future.

Here a picture of my 3D printed mould (made by ABS but I can choose different material  such as PLA, Polycarbonate, ASA and so on).
I have removed all the 3D printing layers and defects by using sand paper; here is how it looks like at the end of the sanding process:


I have applied 7 layers of releasant wax and polysh the mouls after the last one by using a clean cloth.
I have prepared a sandwich of carbon fiber and resin and put inside the compression mold and squeeze it by using 300Kg of weight; I cure it at room temperature.

Here the picture if my first carbon fiber trial part.
Please note that the right side has been painted because the CF part just out of the mould has a matte finish which I don't like at all (I want a gloss finish without any additional painting or polish treatment). I can see major defects which I think are due to a lack of material (my sandwich was too thin) and I'm not worry about it.



How can I get a gloss finish on my carbon fiber part just out of the mould ?
Is it true that the only way to get a gloss carbon fiber part is to have a gloss mould surface? If the answer is yes, can you explain me the reason ?

If I need to treat my 3D mould (ABS material) so it became gloss, which process and materials do I have to purchase?
I’ve read about filler and other stuff but I’m a little bit lost because normally a 3D printed mould is not commonly used.

Can I use S120 directly on the ABS (or PLA, Polycaronate, ect) mould or do I have to apply a primer first?
Or do I have to apply to the mould an epoxy resin first?
I'm a little bit lost and confused because all the info I found are not referred to compression mold and do not require a gloss finish carbon fiber part as I would like.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Edited 6 Years Ago by Matteo Dapporto
scottracing
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Hi Matteo

I have been using 3d printed parts as tools for many years now, and its very difficult to get any of the plastics to polish up nicely enough to a gloss finish.
Luckily there is a few things you can try especially with ABS, firstly you can use an acetone bath or mist to smooth out the ABS print. Have a search online for ABD acetone smoothing and that will help.

The other option is to use something like this material XTC-3D, which is essentially a self levelling lacquer which gives you a gloss finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSKxycs3kPg

Or you can look at getting some tooltec, which is a self adhesive PTFE tape which you apply to the print and you can layup onto it without any other release coating. As the part you are making look is relatively simple the tooltec should conform ok to the geometry.

I look forward to seeing how you get on.




Hanaldo
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XTC is probably the most suitable solution for your current plan, but it doesn't work quite as well as they claim, still needs a bit of sanding. When you're trying to make a matched compression mould, this gets tricky.

In all honesty, if you want a gloss finish then I dont think your approach is terribly well suited to anything more than a one off that you then clear coat. You need the exact finish on the mould that you want on the part because that is the surface the resin is replicating. You cant expect resin to come out glossy when you're moulding off a dull surface.

Why dont you 3D print a male version of what you want to make, sand it to 1200 grit, and then make a fibreglass mould of it? You can then polish up the fibreglass mould to a really high standard and bang out parts with a consistently great finish?
Matteo Dapporto
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scottracing - 10/8/2018 8:50:04 PM
Hi Matteo

I have been using 3d printed parts as tools for many years now, and its very difficult to get any of the plastics to polish up nicely enough to a gloss finish.
Luckily there is a few things you can try especially with ABS, firstly you can use an acetone bath or mist to smooth out the ABS print. Have a search online for ABD acetone smoothing and that will help.

The other option is to use something like this material XTC-3D, which is essentially a self levelling lacquer which gives you a gloss finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSKxycs3kPg

Or you can look at getting some tooltec, which is a self adhesive PTFE tape which you apply to the print and you can layup onto it without any other release coating. As the part you are making look is relatively simple the tooltec should conform ok to the geometry.

I look forward to seeing how you get on.




Thanks for your advices!
I've choosen ABS because the idea was to smooth the mould by using the acetone.
I've printed a small mould and smooth it with acetone and I fill it with a CF sandwich. Unfortunately the CF part had a matte finish. So I decided to do not smooth the mould.
I think I will give a try to lacquer epoxy resin: I will  buy some local product and try it.

Have you got any experience with sealer liquid like the S120 from Easy Composite? In your opinion can I use it directly on the 3D mould surface or I have to apply it on the lacquer epoxy resin?

I've read a topic where the 3D printed mould was sprayed with "heavy and thin" fillers. The mould surface in the pic (see "second layer of spray filler" pic) looks really glossy and well finished. Do you have any experience about this process? Can you help me to identify the "heavy and thin" fillers products?

Carbon-Fiber-Layup-with-Mould-3D-Printer post

PTFE adhesive is a good option too but I'm a bit worried if the final part will be marked from the separation line between the adhesive strips. I will think about it.

Thanks
Matteo

Matteo Dapporto
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Hanaldo - 10/9/2018 1:32:37 AM
XTC is probably the most suitable solution for your current plan, but it doesn't work quite as well as they claim, still needs a bit of sanding. When you're trying to make a matched compression mould, this gets tricky.

In all honesty, if you want a gloss finish then I dont think your approach is terribly well suited to anything more than a one off that you then clear coat. You need the exact finish on the mould that you want on the part because that is the surface the resin is replicating. You cant expect resin to come out glossy when you're moulding off a dull surface.

Why dont you 3D print a male version of what you want to make, sand it to 1200 grit, and then make a fibreglass mould of it? You can then polish up the fibreglass mould to a really high standard and bang out parts with a consistently great finish?

Hi Hanaldo

Thanks for your advices!

I want to try to get a mould from a 3D print because it can be a very powerful method and much faster to manufacture respect the fiberglass mould in some cases.

I though about print a male and use it to build a fiberglass mould but the male I've get from my Prusa has a lot of small defects that I nedd to fix.
Plus if the male surface is not gloss also the fiberglass mould surface has to be polished to get a gloss finish too. Am I right? 
So If I have to polish the fiberglass mould like I have to on my 3D print mould maybe it's much faster print the mould and treat it respect print a male, make a fiberglass mould and polish it.

I don't know if what I'm telling is correct because I have no direct experience in this field but I'm using the one which my father accumulate in more than 60 years of RC planes construction.

All your advices are more than welcomed!
Thanks
Matteo




Hanaldo
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The glossy image of primer is just after it has been sprayed while the primer is still wet. This gloss backs off and it dries to a satin finish, not unlike what you already have. You can get good pattern coatings where you can prime it and then apply a gloss coating, or mix the two together to get an in between result. This is an option for you, but wont work with ABS - ABS is quite a vulnerable plastic, and also difficult to bond to. It's also this reason that makes me doubt S120 would work.

Yes, you would need to polish the fibreglass mould, but fiberglass moulds generally take polishing very well if you use the right materials.

Dont get me wrong, I have great respect for additive manufacturing. But for me it is still more of a prototyping solution, I'm yet to be convinced that it is great for direct printing of tooling, at least not in the traditional sense anyway. 3D printing mandrels and dissolvable cores, fine; there isnt currently a much better solution for that. But for the part you are making, in the way that you are making it - 3D printing the mould isnt the way to go about it for me.

Edited 6 Years Ago by Hanaldo
Steve Broad
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I agree with Hanaldo.

If I tried this method, I would CNC the moulds in aluminium. It is easy to machine, hard wearing and polishes to a glossy finish easily. They look pretty straightforward so a basic 2.5D mill would make this very accurately with no problem.
Matteo Dapporto
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Hanaldo - 10/10/2018 12:11:45 AM
The glossy image of primer is just after it has been sprayed while the primer is still wet. This gloss backs off and it dries to a satin finish, not unlike what you already have. You can get good pattern coatings where you can prime it and then apply a gloss coating, or mix the two together to get an in between result. This is an option for you, but wont work with ABS - ABS is quite a vulnerable plastic, and also difficult to bond to. It's also this reason that makes me doubt S120 would work.

Yes, you would need to polish the fibreglass mould, but fiberglass moulds generally take polishing very well if you use the right materials.

Dont get me wrong, I have great respect for additive manufacturing. But for me it is still more of a prototyping solution, I'm yet to be convinced that it is great for direct printing of tooling, at least not in the traditional sense anyway. 3D printing mandrels and dissolvable cores, fine; there isnt currently a much better solution for that. But for the part you are making, in the way that you are making it - 3D printing the mould isnt the way to go about it for me.

Thanks for your post.

You are right: S120 doesn't stick to ABS and in general to all the plastics surfaces. This is the answer I've got from EC:

"We do not recommend S120 for use on most hard plastic surfaces, including ABS. This is because the surfaces, even when keyed, do not offer a good level of adhesive grip for the sealer. "

I've 3D printed some plates and I'm trying to coat them with gelcoat and epoxy resin and when I'll get the S120 I will try to apply it of these samples and I will see if I can get gloss carbon fiber part. If I will not get it I will paint my CF part with some paint to get the gloss finish.

Thanks for your help!
Matteo

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Steve Broad - 10/10/2018 12:33:17 AM
I agree with Hanaldo.

If I tried this method, I would CNC the moulds in aluminium. It is easy to machine, hard wearing and polishes to a glossy finish easily. They look pretty straightforward so a basic 2.5D mill would make this very accurately with no problem.

I've asket a quotation for CNC moulds to a local supplier and the price is 600€.
The 3D mould material cost me around 7€ plus some hours of work to polish it.
I think for a small production like mine the mould price is quite important.
For sure I will not get the best appearance as I can get by using a CNC mould but it's ok for me to get what I can get from a 3D mould.
 Regards
Matteo

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Use marbocote 2002
Print your mould
Rub the lines out
Apply 6-10 coats of 2002 depending on the porosity of the part (Can oven between coats)
We nib an smooth with 1200 paper
Apply one last very wet coat an let dry naturally
You will have a mirror like Finnish ( thou you can still polish more) that will be good for anything up to 125deg pre preg
For ultimate shine ( and at a lower temp) use a wax release like freewax from freecote
GO

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