Art Resin (Glasscraft 3) waves in finish. What is the work time?


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Hi,
I did my first test piece (900 x 300 mm MDF) with Glasscraft 3 and getting some waves and pits.
Can you please advise what is the ‘work time’ for this product, I have looked at the spec sheets but does not offer this info only ‘curing time’ @ 25 deg.
So what I am looking for is - the time duration after mix I can use the heat gun. I have looked at various videos on You Tube re ‘waves’ and ‘pits’ and I am thinking the reason for my waves result is using the heat gun after the ‘work time’ (a term used in several of the videos).

The ‘pitting’ I am not sure what is causing that.

I am new to resin art so working with epoxy is a learning curve for me and I am determined to get the glass finish I see everyone else achieving although I am acutely aware that epoxy can be rather sensitive and a lot of precautions to be taken that as a newbie is very important to me.

Thank you for your input / response and have a lovely weekend.

Warren (Staff)
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The pot life is 30 minutes at 25C, however the time it takes to "gel" is typically up to 10 hours.  If all your work is done within the 30 minutes then I would not expect any issues. 

In theory you should be able to work the resin much longer once the resin is on the art piece. This is because the pot life is determined in a pot, ie a large volume in one place, where the heat can build up easily.  Once spread out on a surface, the heat does not build up anywhere near as quick.  However, determining  the exact work time once it is on the  work piece is quite hard as it depends on how long it was in the pot for, the ambient temperature, the volume of resin (and hence how quick it built heat up), how thick its poured etc etc etc.  From personal experience On thinner sections, such as on canvas artwork, you might be able to get another 40 minutes or more once its poured.  When I did some thicker sections, like 10mm thick (before we had the GlassCast 10 and 50) It was pour it, and get any heat gun done within 20 minutes as it was going off by then.

Pitting can be either too thin layer or dirt/dust falling on it effecting surface tension.  You would want to be pouring about 1.6kg per square meter and that should just about settle with only a little dribbling down the sides.   Too much and the excess just runs off, too little and you tend to not get as level a surface  and the surface is prone to dents and dinks as the surface tension is effected by the surface of the art work.


Warren Penalver
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CampbellSA
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Warren (Staff) - 8/6/2018 8:39:19 AM
The pot life is 30 minutes at 25C, however the time it takes to "gel" is typically up to 10 hours.  If all your work is done within the 30 minutes then I would not expect any issues. 

In theory you should be able to work the resin much longer once the resin is on the art piece. This is because the pot life is determined in a pot, ie a large volume in one place, where the heat can build up easily.  Once spread out on a surface, the heat does not build up anywhere near as quick.  However, determining  the exact work time once it is on the  work piece is quite hard as it depends on how long it was in the pot for, the ambient temperature, the volume of resin (and hence how quick it built heat up), how thick its poured etc etc etc.  From personal experience On thinner sections, such as on canvas artwork, you might be able to get another 40 minutes or more once its poured.  When I did some thicker sections, like 10mm thick (before we had the GlassCast 10 and 50) It was pour it, and get any heat gun done within 20 minutes as it was going off by then.

Pitting can be either too thin layer or dirt/dust falling on it effecting surface tension.  You would want to be pouring about 1.6kg per square meter and that should just about settle with only a little dribbling down the sides.   Too much and the excess just runs off, too little and you tend to not get as level a surface  and the surface is prone to dents and dinks as the surface tension is effected by the surface of the art work.

Thanks for that Warren,
The more I experiment with resin the more I understand it is a complex product to work with.
Question please :
So for me to repair my art piece (810 x 405 mm) I should use 512 ml as a top coat ?
Also. I used a boxed MDF board (primed) and I know MDF is very porous etc. Any issues using MDF
I am looking to get a perfect top layer for my resin art
Thank you for all your assistance / input
Regards

Warren (Staff)
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The simple way round any problems with wooden frames or boards is to brush apply a very thin layer of resin on as a sealing coat, then allow to cure and key up with sandpaper before going any further.  Seals the wood and prepares it for further resin application.

Mix 550-600ml to take into account mixing pot waste and you should be fine.

Also bear in mind that GlassCast 3 will cure to a rock hard finish, so any minor surface imperfections can be wet sanded out and re-polished back to a gloss., so you don't always need to flood coat the whole surface each time if its just the odd minor defect to repair.


Warren Penalver
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Warren (Staff) - 8/6/2018 10:50:11 AM
The simple way round any problems with wooden frames or boards is to brush apply a very thin layer of resin on as a sealing coat, then allow to cure and key up with sandpaper before going any further.  Seals the wood and prepares it for further resin application.

Mix 550-600ml to take into account mixing pot waste and you should be fine.

Also bear in mind that GlassCast 3 will cure to a rock hard finish, so any minor surface imperfections can be wet sanded out and re-polished back to a gloss., so you don't always need to flood coat the whole surface each time if its just the odd minor defect to repair.
Thanks again Warren,
Regards

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