AWOL
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Hey Guys,
We're playing around with a few moulds at home (Australia) but are having a consistent repelling issue from the Epoxy when we go to lay our carbon (240gsm 2/2 twill) Pretty much pulling our hair out, we're convinced it may have something to do with our moulds but thought we'd seek opinion from the global community. We're wondering if it is because of a polyester gelcoat mould vs epoxy problem? Anyway - here's what we have;
Mould build - the moulds always seem to be a good representation and quite solid Release waxed mould - 5 times Laid down polyester gelcoat (waited 24hours) Laid down 1st lightweight fibreglass adhesion coat (waited 24hours) Laid down 5-6 heavyweight fibreglass layers Wait 2 days - pull mould - reverse mould looks great, detailed representation
Laying Carbon - temperature is approx 20-25C Waxed mould - 5 times, waiting between coats PVA release agent - light coat - wait 30 mins til applying epoxy Epoxy is West Systems with 205 hardener 5:1 Yet when we go to brush on epoxy it repels, ie doesn't seem to want to stick to the prepped surface
Note: when we skin items we have no issues with the epoxy
We're still noobs in this hobby, so will appreciate any input
kind regards Justin
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AWOL
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Group: Forum Members
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Additional note: when we pull the part from the mould we have big pock marks, and yet when we try to sand back and fill we only seem to repeat the same issue It's like the Epoxy won't adhere to the carbon, where the pock marks (exposed carbon) are it doesn't want to take the epoxy Cheers
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AWOL
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Group: Forum Members
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Here's a pic - probably should mention we're doing hand layup, and its 480gsm 2/2 twill The areas where it has repelled the epoxy show up as great gaping voids    Hoping to resurrect it - or even lay up a new attempt, because it's going to look cool - for a mate's 70 Mach 1
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Matthieu Libeert
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+xHere's a pic - probably should mention we're doing hand layup, and its 480gsm 2/2 twill The areas where it has repelled the epoxy show up as great gaping voids    Hoping to resurrect it - or even lay up a new attempt, because it's going to look cool - for a mate's 70 Mach 1  Did you try using a plastic roller to remove air/spread excess resin. I see you add multiple layers of carbonfiber. I assume you wet the mould with epoxy, put down the first layer of carbonfiber, wet it out, add new layer of carbon fiber, wet it out again?
Matthieu Libeert Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports website: www.mat2composites.com 
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AWOL
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Group: Forum Members
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+xDid you try using a plastic roller to remove air/spread excess resin. I see you add multiple layers of carbonfiber. I assume you wet the mould with epoxy, put down the first layer of carbonfiber, wet it out, add new layer of carbon fiber, wet it out again? Thanks for the reply Matthieu, No we haven't tried a plastic roller yet, we will source one out for sure, especially if it will improve our chances - I'm not going to pretend we are experts, still learning (perhaps too impatient) Yes, we did attempt to wet out the mould first with epoxy, (it seemed to repel away - like water on wax, literally runs away from the surface .. unless our wax buffing needs work 'OP quietly questions his wax & PVA methods') We then lay the first layer of cloth, we hoped we could wet it out enough to wet right through to counteract the repelling resin, and actually looked to cover quite well We let this tack off a bit then laid some more cloth, wetting it out also
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Matthieu Libeert
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Group: Forum Members
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Visits: 3.4K
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+x+xDid you try using a plastic roller to remove air/spread excess resin. I see you add multiple layers of carbonfiber. I assume you wet the mould with epoxy, put down the first layer of carbonfiber, wet it out, add new layer of carbon fiber, wet it out again? Thanks for the reply Matthieu, No we haven't tried a plastic roller yet, we will source one out for sure, especially if it will improve our chances - I'm not going to pretend we are experts, still learning (perhaps too impatient) Yes, we did attempt to wet out the mould first with epoxy, (it seemed to repel away - like water on wax, literally runs away from the surface .. unless our wax buffing needs work 'OP quietly questions his wax & PVA methods') We then lay the first layer of cloth, we hoped we could wet it out enough to wet right through to counteract the repelling resin, and actually looked to cover quite well We let this tack off a bit then laid some more cloth, wetting it out also hmm strange! I would recommend you to try the same technique you are using on a glass plate! that way you can do every step and try to analyze now and then through te glass wat is happening on the surface. That way you will already be able to see if the carbonfiber is wetting out enough and if the resin is working ok to go through the fibers till mould surface
Matthieu Libeert Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports website: www.mat2composites.com 
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AWOL
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Group: Forum Members
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+xhmm strange! I would recommend you to try the same technique you are using on a glass plate! that way you can do every step and try to analyze now and then through te glass wat is happening on the surface. That way you will already be able to see if the carbonfiber is wetting out enough and if the resin is working ok to go through the fibers till mould surface That's a great idea - I'll try that for sure (on a smaller scale haha) Thanks again for the advice .. stay tuned
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Matthieu Libeert
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Group: Forum Members
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+x+xhmm strange! I would recommend you to try the same technique you are using on a glass plate! that way you can do every step and try to analyze now and then through te glass wat is happening on the surface. That way you will already be able to see if the carbonfiber is wetting out enough and if the resin is working ok to go through the fibers till mould surface That's a great idea - I'll try that for sure (on a smaller scale haha) Thanks again for the advice .. stay tuned No problem, hopes everything turns out ok for you!
Matthieu Libeert Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports website: www.mat2composites.com 
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Dravis
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Hi!
I used to do hand wet-lays with West Systems 105 and they never turned out well without vacuum, especially on moulds with a lot of contours like yours, 105 is simply too runny for that! (too low viscosity)
All surfaces that are not almost horizontal will have the resin running off them and pooling in the low areas, even when laying up one layer at a time and. I do not think you will ever get a good result without vacuum bagging it. where the resin runs off, there will be voids in the fibre, when cured these will not really let new resin bond to them.
You could try to use som way of mechanically compressing the layup in the mould, I've used plastic bags of hot water to do this, since they will conform to the mouls shape, and speed up the cure to boot :-)
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AWOL
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Group: Forum Members
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Visits: 72
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+xHi! I used to do hand wet-lays with West Systems 105 and they never turned out well without vacuum, especially on moulds with a lot of contours like yours, 105 is simply too runny for that! (too low viscosity) All surfaces that are not almost horizontal will have the resin running off them and pooling in the low areas, even when laying up one layer at a time and. I do not think you will ever get a good result without vacuum bagging it. where the resin runs off, there will be voids in the fibre, when cured these will not really let new resin bond to them. You could try to use som way of mechanically compressing the layup in the mould, I've used plastic bags of hot water to do this, since they will conform to the mouls shape, and speed up the cure to boot :-) Hi Dravis, Thanks for the reply .. That helps greatly I did wonder if it was a viscosity problem, but not having enough experience under me it is hard to compare I do have vac bagging gear but have just been putting it off trying to perfect the disciplines one step at a time - but I guess its time to step up and improve the results - even if there's some trial and error involved I do like the out-of-box thinking re: the hot water bags
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