Fantastic!!!!.. I could not get my head around where the bobbles came from..     I will upload pics later.. Tomorrow it is post cure time and on monday I will demold.

It was a success!! 

I got an electronic thermostat that I linked in an earlyer post from ebay.. It got the temps in the oven a bit more even and stable.. The sensor for the controler i placed infront of the continius rotateing fan. No PID controll in this one.. I ordered one with PID controll and a rauter speed controller but they are stuck some where in the Swedish post system that can´t handle all the chaines packages I am (and everybody else) ordering..


I did for 2 hours 40deg.. then 2h 50 deg, 2h 60deg and 4h 70deg.. Then I hade some more time so I did 75deg for 1h.

After it cooled a bit I pulled the roof from the mold and the surface had no air bubbles that I was afraid of.. It was a bot cloudy in places from the easy lease. I hope that can be cleaned of.
There are a bit of waves or like orange peels in the surface.. I don´t know if that is "print through" due to the post cure process but I think it can be smothed out with a few clear coat layers..

Pictures will come.. Thank you for the help..

Good to hear!  We are all looking forward to the pics!


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

About 3l of epoxy was mixed a total of 3500g.. It was a bit much and <i got about 50cl left but better that athen to little..







Infusion finished.



The controller for the heating fan. It switches on at 39 deg and off at 40 deg.. With the sensor in front of the heating fan it varied about 4 deg. 38-42 so it was better then the old bi metal thermostat controler. I could also adjust the temps from outside the oven and didn´t have to adjust a knob by "feel" to get it right.. Very cheap from ebay.



The heating fan with the sensor for the controller in front of it.



In with it in the post cure oven..



Many hours of guarding the oven,
2h 40deg
2h 50deg
2h 60deg
4h 70deg
1h 75deg

The 75 deg was just because I had som extra time I needed to be in the work shop so no special thought behind it rely.. Plan was to stop at 4h 70 deg.



Ripped the infusin and peelply off..



The overlap on some peelply sepeared and the mech got stock to the roof.. No biggie.. I will sand it off later.



De mold went well and easy..  I was thrilled.. No air bubbles or bridgeing..




The surface got some "orange peel" or print through or what ever you would call it.. It is hard to get a god piture of it but look at the reflections and you can see some of it.  I guess it is because of the post cure process.. I think it can be smoothen out with some lite sanding and a few coats of clear coat..



Next is to try and clean the cloudlynes of from the release agent and trimming before I will send it to the painter for clear coat and then glue it to the car..

I´d like to understand why the surface isn´t smooth like the mold.. Can any one explane what happens? I wounder if it would have been better if I had removed the vacuum and vacuum bag before post cure..
I have looked a little closer to the carbon roof and it is worse in some places and better in some and I dont think that there is much epoxy to sand in until a sand into the fibers.. The paint guy wont be happy I think with all sanding and clear coating that needs to be done..

Also any tips of removing the cloudlyness that the easy lease relese agent caused.. I am not realy sure if it is a matt finish I am mistaken for release agent.. I tried carefully with easy composites mold cleaner but same here.. I am not sure if it removes any and get the finish a little matt or if it doesnt work at all...

Dont obsess about getting a perfectly flat surface, what you've got there looks good. You'll drive yourself crazy and never enjoy yourself if you focus on things like that. Truth is, you generally do need layers of clear coat to get a lasting show finish. For the most part, carbon fibre parts will show some degree of - for lack of a better word - 'unflatness', whether it is print through or shrinkage or orange peel etc etc. Realistically, if you ask your painter to use a good quality high solids clear coat, he will only need to spray it once to get it looking excellent. And if you do want a show finish, ask him to flow coat it - you're the one paying for it.

With regards to the residue from the Easylease, once you have cleaned the surface with mould cleaner then it won't actually be anything on the surface, it will just be the resin duplicating the finish of the mould. Once sanded down and clear coated, you won't see this anymore.

Looks brilliant.

When you look at a fine angle on infused parts, you will typically see the pattern of the  weave as a slight print through.  This is normal and is a consequence of there being only a fraction of a mm of resin over the top of the carbon -  ie the nature of infusion.  

Only way I have seen it eliminated for a "perfect" glass like smoothness is using a gelcoat or multiple layers of lacquer.

To get such a large part so perfect straight out the mould on your first attempt is really quite impressive.


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

Thank you.. It wouldn´t have been so if I didn´t get alot of help hereso THANK YOU Hanaldo and everybody else.. 

It will take a while to get it finished on the car because of some paint work that has to be done to the car it self before glueing on the roof. But I will keep updating with pics the process til its is done.

I trimed the edges and fitted the roof on the car.. If I would do it again I would kompensate för the front and rear edge since I kept those from the stock roof and will glue the carbon roof over them.. I will get it over but an extra mm or two would have been nice.
I got the CF roof back from the painter and he did a good job.. he had to do 4 coats so it added some weight but I can live with that.. 

Now I struggle with finding a glue or a adhesive.. I got a tip of thickening out epoxy resin with wheat flour and shopet carbon fibers that I can cut myself with a scissor.  I think that will be a bit too brittle.. Some kind of black polyurethane wind screen adhesive would be perfect if it wasn´t that short time before it sets.. The one I got has an "opening time" of 10 min.. I would need atleast double that.. 

Right now I am doing some tests with the primer used with windscreen glue and plastic paddings pp-flex.. I will see tomorrow knight how it performs..

Anyone with suggestions?

sikaflex is used commonly to bond composite parts onto cars, but If you are looking for something more structural as a bond then i would look at some of the other materials EC sell.