question about making a mold for a car emblem


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Dravis
Dravis
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Frankly, I'm amaze that you succeded in brushing Unimould Gelcoat that thinly .. Whistling ..  (If Unimould is what you have been using)

You need to start over .. no doubt about that ..  as Hanaldo points out you need a much thicker layer of gelcoat .. follow the Unimould tutorials closely ...

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Edited 8 Years Ago by Dravis
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Oh wow, yeh ok that isn't print-through haha. You need to apply the gelcoat much thicker than that. You're aiming for a thickness of around 500 microns (0.5mm) per layer, which is a reasonably thick brush application. A decent rule of thumb is that you need to no longer be able to see the pattern underneath the gelcoat anymore, which is obviously easier if your pattern isnt the same colour as your gelcoat. 

It also looks like you've got a fair few voids in the coupling coat behind the gelcoat. These will leave areas of unsupported gelcoat, which will be extremely brittle. You want to take a lot of care to get rid of any and all trapped air in the coupling coat. 

Unfortunately I would say that mould is not salvageable and you will need to start again. 
iarefluffy
iarefluffy
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i only did one coat of each, i probably should do 2+ and wait like 24 hours between each right? that would be a lot better yeah? 
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MarkMK
MarkMK
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You didn't say how many coats if the gelcoat you'd used, so brushing a couple of coats before continuing with reinforcement might also help (if you only applied a single coat)
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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No, you left enough time. If you hadn't, the resin would have attacked the gelcoat and made it wrinkle up. 

What you are experiencing is called print-through, and it's very common. What weight fibreglass did you use behind the gelcoat? The heavier the first layer of glass you use, the more noticeable the print through effect will be. Often you will still get print using a 100g or 225g cloth though, so don't be too upset if that's the case. The absolute best way to eliminate it is to allow the mould to cure for longer (or do an elevated temperature cure) prior to demoulding. The effect is caused by shrinkage of the resin, so the better cured it is the less it will shrink. 

The good news is that you can simply wet-sand and polish it out of your current mould, so it should be salvageable. 
Edited 8 Years Ago by Hanaldo
iarefluffy
iarefluffy
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not too sure how much time im suppose to wait between applying tooling and coupling coat. i waited about 2 hours or until slightly firm and slightly sticky, then put the fiberglass and coupling coat. Then when everything was dried after a day or so, removed my emblem and there were imprints from the fiberglass on it. Did i not leave enough time between the coats?
GO

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