Small areas of wax are fine to leave, as long as they're not on the 'good' mould surface and not in areas that you'll want to apply bagging tape to. After getting as much off with a lolly stick or similar, the mould cleaner that EC sell with take care of the rest.

Something to look at next time around is to give yourself at least 4 inches of flange area to work with, as it makes everything much more tidy and manageable. Where practical, creating rectangular mould surrounds also helps when it comes to bagging up.

On a part that thin, you can probably get away with hardly any of the infusion mesh in the centre area, which should make sure that the furthest away sections are thoroughly wetted out by the time the resin reaches the exit port

Easy composites sell a cleaner to remove the wax but standard cellulose thinner works fine, its hard to say about the repair without good images but its possible to secure the broken section as you suggested.   

Continuing my (steep) learning curve

What is the best method of cleaning filleting wax off the mould? I Assume it does have to be completely removed before use




How long should I be leaving a mould until I can use it? (currently my timescales are in weeks & months but it would be nice to know what i could get away with)   




Also a small part of the mould surround snapped off while I was removing the plug I assume I can glue it back on and fill the gap with the epoxy gel coat?  

Thanks for your replys. Mould made over the weeked just giving it a while to harden off then I'll have a go!

I almost always use slow hardner as generally im not in a rush and it gives me time to get thinks right.

ChrisR no Idea how far the resin will travel before stalling that was my original worry.

I would have the resin inlet at the top about 1/3 along the length from say the left side with just a small length of spiral hose/mesh and the outlet at the far right btm corner somewhere with a nice resin dam/break

There would be no issues infusing along the length of the part however depending on amdiant temperature its worth considering a slow hardener in the resin.

This is no problem with a break zone, as FLD suggested. You will want spiral hose on the vacuum side to spread the vacuum, otherwise you may end up with pinholes on the far edges. 

Yep just like that but I ran spiral the full length of each side.  If you leave a couple of inches of just peel ply (no mesh) it doesn't come through. Well, it didn't for me.

Hi FLD

I thinks so you mean something like in the attached pic?

I've done similar parts and gone for a diagonal set up. Does this make sense?