Hi I am after a little advice

I have a screen fillet from my westfield which I intend to recreate in carbon the problem i have is that the part is long and thin.

I would like some advice as to the best position to put the resin feed and vacumm lines

Across the part I think the resin will travel too quickly but along the part is the length too long

Middle vacumn with feed from both ends?

Pic attached

I've done similar parts and gone for a diagonal set up. Does this make sense?

Hi FLD

I thinks so you mean something like in the attached pic?

Yep just like that but I ran spiral the full length of each side.  If you leave a couple of inches of just peel ply (no mesh) it doesn't come through. Well, it didn't for me.

This is no problem with a break zone, as FLD suggested. You will want spiral hose on the vacuum side to spread the vacuum, otherwise you may end up with pinholes on the far edges. 

There would be no issues infusing along the length of the part however depending on amdiant temperature its worth considering a slow hardener in the resin.

I would have the resin inlet at the top about 1/3 along the length from say the left side with just a small length of spiral hose/mesh and the outlet at the far right btm corner somewhere with a nice resin dam/break

Thanks for your replys. Mould made over the weeked just giving it a while to harden off then I'll have a go!

I almost always use slow hardner as generally im not in a rush and it gives me time to get thinks right.

ChrisR no Idea how far the resin will travel before stalling that was my original worry.

Continuing my (steep) learning curve

What is the best method of cleaning filleting wax off the mould? I Assume it does have to be completely removed before use




How long should I be leaving a mould until I can use it? (currently my timescales are in weeks & months but it would be nice to know what i could get away with)   




Also a small part of the mould surround snapped off while I was removing the plug I assume I can glue it back on and fill the gap with the epoxy gel coat?  

Easy composites sell a cleaner to remove the wax but standard cellulose thinner works fine, its hard to say about the repair without good images but its possible to secure the broken section as you suggested.