Resin infusion with closed mould and no peel-ply. Is it possible?


Resin infusion with closed mould and no peel-ply. Is it possible?
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Olivier
Olivier
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Hi,

I would like to make a small straight razor blade (so size is 14 X 2 cm max.)
I would like to make it in a closed mould under high pressure (so it made of 1piece).
I want to have the carbon cosmetic finish on both sides so here is my issue.
All infusion I saw had one flat surface on the side of the bagging.
If I do not use peel-ply and / or infusion mesh is it possible to succeed with infusion if the part is very small?
If I use Easy Lease knitted mesh does it make a difference?
How can I get 2 cosmetic sides on my razor blade?

Thanks for your help.
Kind Regards,
Olivier
scottracing
scottracing
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one quick question, why would you want to make a carbon razor blade?
Dravis
Dravis
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@scottracing:   I think it's an obsession ... BigGrinLaughw00t


If you have a split mould of both sides of the razor-blade, that can withstand high pressure, there is really no need to use infusion .. just wet-lay in the carbon to fill the void, very resin rich, then compress. and let the excess resin escape out the joint of the two halves..  No need to have anything but release agent in there .. 

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Hanaldo
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That's what I would have said ^ Matched moulding is better than infusion really. 
Olivier
Olivier
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Yes indeed it is an obsession.
I think about infusion because very small Fiber parts are sometimes tricky to handle with resin sticking to your finger.

Do you lay all CF layers then pour the resin or pour resin with each layer?.

Davis I will follow your explanation. I found PB lingots for sale or maybe concrete blocks.
I will make the mould with EC Epoxy gelcoat, woven FG and IN2 for reinforcement.
The part will be made with CF 1k 130g and knife steel foil embedded.

PS: after surgery I cannot go out so I had to find a small project to get my mind busy. I know there is not much chance to make a really usable Carbon fiber razor but it is a challenge for me as long as I cannot walk outside. 😃
Dravis
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When doing "wet-lay" which this will be in essence, I use a stiff paintbrush of suitable size ..   ( I often cut the bristles shorter on the EC "disposable" brushes)

I paint down a thick layer of resin, then lay down the CF, then "paint" on more resin, stipple to remove as much trapped air as possible, and build up the layers that way..

I take it that you do have a vacuum pump.. You should envelope bag the whole mould after layup and make sure the bag will hold a full vacuum (NO leaks! )

Add some sort of cloth to absorb the excess resin that will come out along the edge of the mould. ( A good way to do this is to make one part of the mould with larger flanges around, make sure to wax/release coat these, and then put the absorber cloth on this flange.) This will also give you a place to put the vacuum through bag connector.

Good luck ... and post pictures!   Pics of "fails" will also be helpful to the rest of us here ..  Most of us are here to learn .. Wink

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

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103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
Olivier
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Thanks Dravis,

I will post pictures but it will take some times I am still sanding the pattern.
I am not sure how to lay down the layers.
Do you advise to cut larger pieces of CF and let it overlap the flanges then trim later or cut the right size and roll the cloth on itself?
Dravis
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I would not advise to cut all the fabric pieces larger than the internal space of the mould for your project..

I would lay down the outer layers, and let those be a bit larger than the shape itself, and allow them to extend onto the larger lower flange of the mould

I would try to cut precise pieces of fabric to fit the internal space, and enough layers to fill the space to a point where they will be compressed quite hard. (test it without resin present)

To be able to handle it, i recommend spraying one side with something like this: https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/fusionfix-gp-spray-adhesive

When dried it will make the fabric easy to cut into nice shapes.  On the outside layers, make sure the sprayed side is in towards the core of the blade, as the spray will be visible on the "cosmetic" side.

You can use the mould to control the placement of the steel foil for the edge (let it protrude slightly less than the two outside layers of CF.)

Good luck .. BigGrin

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
Olivier
Olivier
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Hi Dravis,

Thank you very much for your help. 
I still have a lot of work with my pattern as there are lots of parameters to take into account to make a usable well balanced, with the right angle for the bevel...

I will post pictures of all steps asap.

Thanks, take care
GO

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