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kip
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Well I thought its maybee because the products there are in the spray gelcoat to make it thinner ( aceton or styreni ) these could maybee make the polyester parts or the clear coat on some parts weak and thats why they wont release specially on the round edges .
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Hanaldo
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Ahhh I see! My bad, I thought I had read that you were using unimould, now I see I totally made that up! In any case, it still shouldn't give you release issues. The only issue I can see is that spray gelcoat is thinner than brush gelcoat and so it will be harder to brush it on to the appropriate thickness. However this would only cause issues with improper curing and alligatoring, I don't believe it would cause any issues with release. What issues are you having now? Have you got a photo of your tray? Straight 0 degree edges on 4 sides would certainly cause release difficulties if the edges have enough surface area. If they are only small lips then it shouldn't be too bad, but if they are decent sized edges with a bit of surface area to create friction then releasing a part from them would be difficult.
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kip
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Hanaldo (22/01/2015)
The unimould system can be applied by brush. The gelcoat I got here is from a big composits factory here and they only had spray tipe vinyel ester gelcoat
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Hanaldo
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The unimould system can be applied by brush.
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kip
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I maybee found the problem with the vinylester gelcoat not releasing correct .
Can it be because it is spray gelcoat and I put it on with a brush ?
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kip
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Group: Forum Members
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I maybee found the problem with the vinylester gelcoat not releasing correct .
Can it be because it is spray gelcoat and I put it on with a brush ?
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kip
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Hanaldo (18/01/2015)
Yeh unfortunately because you applied a wax over the top, you will need to completely clean the mould off before reapplying the chemical release agent. It isn't really necessary though, you should just be able to polish those marks out of your parts without much effort. Depends on whether you need to pull 1 or 2 parts from them or 50 I guess. Also no, you won't see much once it has evaporated. But as you wipe the film on, it should just stay as a lightly wet surface. If it beads up or fisheyes or forms anything that looks like droplets, then it is much too heavy. Anyone's guess as to why your part stuck. Wax is a bit inconsistent for me, I would never rely on it. Works great for alleviating surface tension issues, but that's all I ever use it for. You know there is no silicone in your polish, but do you know if it contains wax? There can be a difference between simple buffing compounds and polishes that claim an extra gloss. Buffing compounds are almost more like a super fine sand paper that just remove very small scratches, and often these are all polishes are. But some manufacturers include a carnauba wax or similar to yield a higher, albeit false, gloss. This then gets removed when you use a solvent cleaner and you end up with your dull looking part. Today I made the new mould of the rvs tray I anly used the easy lease release agent after I cleaned the part with easy lease cleaner . I now did 2 layers of vinylester gelcoat and this looked much better . The mould did come off pretty hard though but this can maybee bee because the vinylester doesn't got any shrink on it and the "tray" had straight edges . I also got me new polishing product from 3M it has no wax or silicone in it . I polished a new part with it and when I clean it with the easy lease cleaner the part doesn't get the weird pattern on it , it only turns a little less polished . On the old part I really think I need to sand it down with a 600 sanding paper first because when I sand it with a 1500 paper the weird pattern goes away but when I use easy lease cleaner it stil returns but not that hard
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Hanaldo
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Group: Forum Members
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Yeh unfortunately because you applied a wax over the top, you will need to completely clean the mould off before reapplying the chemical release agent. It isn't really necessary though, you should just be able to polish those marks out of your parts without much effort. Depends on whether you need to pull 1 or 2 parts from them or 50 I guess. Also no, you won't see much once it has evaporated. But as you wipe the film on, it should just stay as a lightly wet surface. If it beads up or fisheyes or forms anything that looks like droplets, then it is much too heavy. Anyone's guess as to why your part stuck. Wax is a bit inconsistent for me, I would never rely on it. Works great for alleviating surface tension issues, but that's all I ever use it for. You know there is no silicone in your polish, but do you know if it contains wax? There can be a difference between simple buffing compounds and polishes that claim an extra gloss. Buffing compounds are almost more like a super fine sand paper that just remove very small scratches, and often these are all polishes are. But some manufacturers include a carnauba wax or similar to yield a higher, albeit false, gloss. This then gets removed when you use a solvent cleaner and you end up with your dull looking part.
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kip
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Hanaldo (18/01/2015)
Looks like you applied the chemical release agent too heavily so it left a residue. You really don't need much at all, barely enough to wet the surface. If you wipe it on and you can see it bead up or fish eye or anything like that then it's too heavy. You want to wipe it on, see it look slightly wet and then it should evaporate. Thnx , so now I can clean it all off with the easy lease mould cleaner and put the 4 layers back on it but much thiner . when it was all evaporated u couldn't see anything like fish eyes or anything just a smooth shiny part . Any Idea what happend to the polyester part of me now I know there isn't any silicone in the polish ?
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Hanaldo
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Looks like you applied the chemical release agent too heavily so it left a residue. You really don't need much at all, barely enough to wet the surface. If you wipe it on and you can see it bead up or fish eye or anything like that then it's too heavy. You want to wipe it on, see it look slightly wet and then it should evaporate.
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