I would like to freshen the look of my workstation by applying a carbon fibre skin to this desktop. This application means that the carbon fibre won't need to have any structural strength, merely cosmetic. I'd like to use a large-pattern cloth, like spread-tow 15mm 2/2 twill. You can see from the photos that the desk is a boomerang shape, with a number of different curves. The dimensions of the desk are [EDIT: Changed specs - it's larger, critically, in the max depth] 43 1/4" max depth, 88 5/8" width, and approximately 1" thick, with a few other contours shown (or, 1.1M x 2.25M x 25mm). I'd like it to have a high-gloss finish, or possibly, a nice, even matte finish with some texture. The substrate is some kind of fibre-reinforced resin. I'd like to wet lay the CF on the desktop, and wrap it around underneath just enough so it is cosmetically pleasing (though not cover the underside). 

Getting the spread tow to conform around the sharp edges at the back will probably be very difficult, if not impossible. the same goes for the front edges, even though they are rounded.

I'm currently working on a set of bathroom washbasins, they have a 25 mm radius over an angle of about 70 degrees, an that has proven a bit of a challenge ...

The corners will be the biggest challenge

If I were to do a skinning of your desk, i would go for an edge around the desk, made from something like twill weave CF, and have the spread tow only on the flat surface.

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Outstanding, Dravis - that's *exactly* what I was hoping to learn (and was worried about). Thanks for your response. When you say "conform," are you talking about keeping the alignment relatively straight? And, would this be alleviated somewhat with a smaller pattern - like a 7.5mm spread tow? I love the large pattern... 

The alignment would be one difficulty, but actually getting the spread tow to stick to the table around the corners would be the main issue. Carbon is naturally stiff, it won't want to go around corners like that without vacuum holding it in place. It will lift off the table around the edges and not look very nice at all. 

As "hanaldo" writes, the difficulty is in keeping the CF spread tow to "stay in place" ... it can not be done without something keeping it in place around the edge, thats for sure. This does not need to be vacuum, but could be tape.

It will be very difficult to keep a nice straight pattern with spread tow on the edges, if not impossible. Thats why I suggest a twill edge. The border between the twill and spread tow, can be made very nice and sharp by letting the spread tow cure to a slight tack, then cutting the wetted out spread tow on the flat surface, and then very carefully lifting it up at the edge, and putting the twill UNDER the spread tow edge.

an easier way is to paint a solid coloured line on top to cover any imperfections in the edge between spread tow and twill.

You will need only one layer, if you use black coloured epoxy "base-coat"  (see the EC "skinning" tutorial video)

To make the surface durable and strong, use a 2 component clear coat, or if you can not do that yourself take the table top to a car paintshop and get it clear-coated.

You can get a very nice structured surface by using peel-ply on top, remove it, and have the car paintshop clear-coat it with several layers of a "satin" clear coat.
leave the edges without peel-ply ... or polish them shiny with rubbing compound an ... many possibilities ...

Good luck!  It will look stunning if done properly ...

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Hello
Just curious. Why didn't you just follow the tried and proven skinning method described on this web site?
You brush on the black surface coat and when almost tack free state you apply the carbon and smooth it down and apply the clear epoxy in a number of layers. When cured, you flat sand/ and 2k clear/ compound to what ever sheen you desire. Its perfect!
I have done this a number of times without any problems. I am about to skin my entire airplane dash with this method. This dash has some very complex shapes.
Fred  

Some sanding and recoating might give you beter results, did it on a ironman mask 

fgayford - I didn't use the "tried and true" methods principally because this was the first time I have worked with any of the materials. I'd never even seen raw carbon fiber fabric before this, and hadn't worked with epoxy at all. With the fabric, I had so little extra material in the 50"-wide roll for wrapping that I wanted to maximize working time and flexibility, as well as achieving a strong wrap on the edges without bagging. So I made a novice's judgment call and, after watching videos with the spray adhesive technique, determined that it'd be optimal to try this method. I also didn't know two things with the epoxy: tack time, and sandability. I felt that I'd screw up tack time and end up either getting poor adhesion, or having unevenness that wouldn't be sandable. Had I known these attributes, I would have approached it differently. 

It's by trial and error you will learn but you can be proud of the results you got, it's a badass looking desk you have there!