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Dravis
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That stuff is almost certainly the same as this: http://www.wessex-resins.com/products/wra-permakote.html They are UK based --- in Cupernham La, Romsey SO51 7LF, UK Wessex resins tote this as a "coating resin" for table tops etc. but it is much more useful than just that ... It is a very tough and very clear coating resin, that can be brushed on and will self-level out the brushmarks quite well. It leaves almost no trapped bubbles, even without using a heat gun .. BUT: It will not properly wet out carbon fibres, and it will trap airbubbles inside fabrics... so in effect it is ONLY a top coat .. Also it will flow off steep sides ... but still leave a nice thick coat.
"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW! The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind... 103% of all people do not understand statistics... Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
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dmgeurts
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Ah, another US supplier. Being based in the UK means that most US based sources won't ship.
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TDShimo
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I used a product called Pro Glas 1100 from a U.S. wholesaler/retailer, Fiberlay. I don't know about its heat resistance, but the properties sheet does note that it will delam in freezing conditions. Other notes: TYPICAL PROPERTIES at 100:100 volume Mix ratio, ProGlas 1100 series: 100:100 Gel Time 77˚ F: 51 minutes Thin Film Set Time / Hour: 5 Handling Properties at 77 °FViscosity: 3500 cps (ProGlas 1100A) 1400 cps (ProGlas 1100B) Pot Life at 77 °F: 51 minutes Test Value Durometer Hardness 2hr @ 60 C: 78 +/- 3 Tensile strength, PSI: 3390 Tensile Modulus: 261,500 Flexural strength, PSI: 6752 Flexural modulus: 197,848 Tensile Elongation %: 24 VOC (grams/liter): 0 Density (lbs/gal): A- 9.64
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dmgeurts
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What bartop epoxy did you use and where did you get it? I'm looking to use resin for a worktop as well but am concerned about the thermal properties of the resin and the hardness. It seems most resins are either hard (scratch resistant) or thermally resistant (think hot mug on desk or a bit of solder landing where it shouldn't). The US has a host of specialist table/bartop resins but the UK has none available. I'm wondering how clear EC "Very High Temperature Epoxy Laminating Resin" is as a top coat. An alternative is using 2K lacquer over the top of a polyester resin in order to apply a hard temperature resistant top coat. It would also solve the tacky surface of the polyester resin. Thoughts?
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TDShimo
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Oooh, the ProFinish is what I should have been doing all along... for sure. I've been able to maintain acceptably straight, aligned weaves, though I do get separation on tight curves that I've tried to adjust for in various ways. I view this WHOLE process - being afraid to shape excess epoxy and discovering products like ProFinish - akin to learning to drive a rear-wheel drive rally car before you step into an AWD rally car. You'd be faster in the latter, but you have to learn your rudiments. I don't have nearly enough time for my garage, haha! I think I'm going to knock-down this super-glossy desk tonight with a staged wet-sanding, and refinish it in a matte spray. I'll try it with a single-part finish first, to test its durability. I'll get a two-part finish if I find that it wears poorly. Yes, it's probably going to be extra work, but no more so than dismantling and transporting this desk.
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Warren (Staff)
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The desk still looks awesome. The skinning method using a base coat to blot out colour and stick the fabric is a bit more consistant than glues. As you found the glues can move and air can be trapped underneath a lot more easily. Using a heatgun can help remove any small bubbles that end up in the clear top coat resin. A tip would be to try a carbon like our ProFinish Carbon Fibre 2/2 Twill as the resin binder means the fibres will much easier stay straight and true meaning its much easier to lay the carbon on the table top.
Warren PenalverEasy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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fgayford
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WOW! That looks great.The Carbon looks good in a satin finish, classy.
Your doing really well. Well done!
Fred
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Hanaldo
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Well, your skinning skills by FAR exceed my efforts. I quickly decided that skinning was not the method for me haha.
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TDShimo
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Oh no, I no longer feel bad - just tremendously motivated and now empowered to build more stuff. But I appreciate the advice and encouragement. In fact, I worked on technique after technique until I got my skills to where I'd feel comfortable with doing the interior trim in my car. I'm REALLY happy with these results, even with the blemishes. Like the desk, they have a delightfully handmade quality to them, even though the finished quality of the trim is FAR better than the desk. I still have some shaping to do, though the fit of the gauge cluster piece, for example, is much better than the pics show. I love this stuff. My employees think the desk is outstanding and they all want one now. Haha! |
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fgayford
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TDShimo (02/01/2015)
fgayford - I didn't use the "tried and true" methods principally because this was the first time I have worked with any of the materials. I'd never even seen raw carbon fiber fabric before this, and hadn't worked with epoxy at all. With the fabric, I had so little extra material in the 50"-wide roll for wrapping that I wanted to maximize working time and flexibility, as well as achieving a strong wrap on the edges without bagging. So I made a novice's judgment call and, after watching videos with the spray adhesive technique, determined that it'd be optimal to try this method. I also didn't know two things with the epoxy: tack time, and sandability. I felt that I'd screw up tack time and end up either getting poor adhesion, or having unevenness that wouldn't be sandable. Had I known these attributes, I would have approached it differently. matthieutje65 - yes, that is an excellent tutorial, but I needed to develop a bit more skill before being able to really pull that off. Now, of course, I'm in a much more confident spot, and have learned a lot about the materials' properties and how they can be manipulated. Your desk still looks impressive. If it were me and the ripples are not to deep I would continue with the skinning process. I would board sand the desk as flat as possible stopping the moment I got to the carbon. Scuff the shiney low spots wipe with acetone and now brush on a good layer of the SKINNING RESIN. (not normal resin as it is too thin) Now wait until you are at an almost tack free state (You may have an hour or so to wait so there is no rush)and brush on another layer. Let this cure fully and flat sand it again. Keep doing this until it is totally flat. Now spray on automotive 2 part clear coat and flat sand again with fine wet papers up to about 2500 grit. Now compound as is normal automotive procedure and you will have reached perfection. We all make mistakes when we are leaning so don't feel bad.
Fred
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