Techniques for bonding parts from a split mould....


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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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If you use the excess flange material as a guide, you can get it very close to perfect without needing to trim it in your mould. Use an orbital sander with a 40 or 60 grit disc to sand away the excess material until it becomes so thing that it just breaks off. This is then the exact dimensions of your original part (provided you did a neat job of sanding it away).
Blackrat
Blackrat
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surely a joggle joint will be best ?  than trying to join butt ends ?
ChrisR
ChrisR
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Simples, very carefully!

You just need to mark up and cut so you have a few mm to spare then slowly and gently remove the material up to the mark but checking against the other part regularly.

You can take it away easily but it's messy to put back Wink or as the other saying goes, measure twice (or 5 times!) and cut once
jamesw
jamesw
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The bonding thickness I'm not too worried about - It's trimming it accurately so it mates up properly - I can trim it in mould, but how to do it without damaging the tooling coat on the mould?!
FLD
FLD
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If you use 2x200g cloth each side and a 3mm soric core you'll end up with a 4mm thick moulding.  This should give enough area to bond directly.  If you're worried you can then add some carbon tape down the inside to firm it up further.
kidpaint
kidpaint
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have any images of the nose? 
jamesw
jamesw
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I am planning to build a car nose cone with a split mould using infusion. I plan to infuse each half, then bond these halves together (soric core)

I'm looking for techniques and suggestions to accurately cut down and align the components for bonding...  If anyone has tackled this before please let me know!



James
GO

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