Who are you guys referring to with the questions?  I'm not sure if I'm supposed to answe those questions or not???

Are you degassing your resin?  I've found a similar 'dry' appearance on some infusion trials I did.  I found that very tiny bubbles appear in the resin on the surface giving a slightly cloudy or dry appearance despite the resin being fully infused.  I put my resin cup in the catch pot and put it under vacuum for a few min before infusion.  Foamed up a fair amount so there was some dissolved gas in the resin.  When I infused with this I got a far better finish and I also found I had very little foaming / bubbling at the vac hose.  I'm afraid the bin acquired my parts so I cant put up a pic for you.

using polyester surfboard laminating resin (unknown viscosity).

Wrong material. I assume its viscosity is too high and pot life too short, especially at elevated temperatures. At least use the catalyst at the lower recommended ratio, not the full two pecent (or whatever the manufacturer says). Try 1.6 or 1.7%, or adjust accordingly. But it's still not a suitable material.

Polyester contains a lot of styrene, which is pretty volatile. It will start to evaporate at full vacuum and is sucked through your pump. In the long run you will contaminate your vacuum pump's oil, and it won't reach its full vacuum anymore, so consider changing the oil eventually.
Since the styrene has considerable vapour pressure the whole infusion takes place at a higher pressure than you think.

Also used systemthree mirrorcoat epoxy (700 cps) but had almost the same result, but slightly better (still had a lot of dry spots).

Better choice, but viscosity still somewhat high. I assume it has a longer pot life? Buy real infusion resin.

As far as how fast was the infusion, since it is a small part, it infuses through in no more than 2-3 minutes.

That's why you had at least some success, a bigger part would have been a total failure with these resins.

Temperature out here in hawaii is roughly low to mid 80s*F when infusing.

Too warm. Start early in the morning when temperatures are lower.

You might want to consider a different infusion strategy. Introduce the resin in the middle, directly onto the part, and have the vacuum line on the mould flange. This way enough resin is sucked into the part and there should be less problems at the edges and corners. Peel ply break zone will slow down the resin enough so it stays in the part.

In the picture of the infusion are you stopping the resin feed at that point? Some of the cloth still has to wet out. I know its off the part but if you stop the resin feed at that point the resin that has been absorbed will continue to migrate into the dry cloth during curing leaving the rest of the part starved of resin.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd

Hi guys i'm having the same similar issues but i dont have any voids nor pin holes, see pics on the following link. Has anyone has this sort of experience with adhesive sprays. Ohh i have two sprays [Airtac2 and 3M ACPS] and the results are the same . i wish there was a way i could do away with the adhesive but im forced due to the shape of my mold, how are you guys doing it.

You'll probably just find that the laminating resin just isn't a low enough viscosity, infusion resins are typically less than 500 at 20-25deg and some less than 300, typical laminating resins are between 500 and 1000 so it may just be too high viscocity

Are you sure it's actually dry? Or is it just matte?  Can you take a photo closer up, so we can see the fabric better? The polyester one does look a bit dry, but the epoxy ones all look ok. 

Neither.  Those circles were there to be drilled out after I made the part.  Don't mind the bridging in the epoxy picture.  It was just a reference to see how the finish on the flat side was compared to the polyester.