Carbon Fibre Tea Tray


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morepower
morepower
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I use the lightest breather I can buy for my bodykits... but there are a few places that I had problem getting the breather down without bunching and that was where I had issues early on... But when I just used release film in those areas I stopped having problems.... But the second tray looks good and your technique works, so I dont blame you for doing a few more tests without breather...
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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The breather debate will rage on forever!

With most OOA designed pre-pregs you will have NO problems using breather over the whole part.

Also You will achieve perfectly good results only having breather to edge of the mould.

The whole point of the breather is to ensure there is a path for entrapped air to get out.  Clearly on the pre-preg itself, there are plenty of channels and gaps for air to escape. Realistically the only problem areas seem to be where it is bag against smooth mould or bag on bag that could stop air being sucked out.

Most parts I make now only have breather under the vacuum port to the edge of the mould.

As long as the air has a path to get out then IMO it matters not what you do with breather

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
TomDesign
TomDesign
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Warren can i use first layer pre pre and other layer dry cf? or this bad idea?

why i not get people dont want parts from wet cf only dry? or color?
morepower
morepower
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TomDesign (24/06/2013)
Warren can i use first layer pre pre and other layer dry cf? or this bad idea?

why i not get people dont want parts from wet cf only dry? or color?


Tom there is so little resin in the pre-preg that putting a dry cloth layer in there would suck all the resin it can off the surface of the pre-preg part and there would not be enough resin in the part to work....

You can get good results with wet lay too and do almost as much with wet lay parts as you can with pre-preg.. It is just pre-preg is lighter and stronger.

These parts are wet lay carbon using a polyester resin...



And this is pre-preg carbon  before being clear coated..


After clear coat.


You need to either use all pre-preg or all dry and use either polyester or Epoxy resin as you cannot mix the two different techniques.
TomDesign
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OK Morepower i dont know you name but thanks! by the way i done stuf with polyster resin and thats bad thing coz when you clear coat wait a little and sterin from polyster not cure and start to eat and to set down clear coat surface even till carbon pattern.

Polyster resin only great as to work with it very easy BUT- epoxy resin can be used with some tricks like to wait 2-3 hours and get 2 side stick so can do material on top nicely i use polyster but when i spray from canister Glue that fixes cloth and when i lay epoxy- everything nice when i lay up polyster glue start to melt and not to fix or hold cloth. what you can suggest? maybe to lay first layer epoxy and brush and other layers polyster? what you think?

any idea on these? as im in this 7 years and still learning. 
Edited 12 Years Ago by TomDesign
morepower
morepower
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I dont clear coat my polyester parts.. No need too.... I only clear coat the pre-preg carbon... I have only been doing this for about 18 months and my first pre-preg part was about 9 months ago.... lol.. I am learning so much and having to do so very very fast...... lol. My Name is Rich..
TomDesign
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Rich but if not to clear coat UV destroy your parts!
wozza
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carboncactus (22/06/2013)
TomDesign (22/06/2013)
Also cactus i dont need to put extra fiberglass layers or something parts to be light and strong. i can easyli put 1 layer of pre preg 200gr and be good? what you think for car fenders?


I never put fibreglass in anything I do unless the customer requests it to save money. It adds weight and its dishonest. A lot of people out there are putting only 1 layer of carbon and backing up with glass. It gets on my nerves.

Those trays were 4 layers of 200g carbon each.
The bike mudguard was one of 200g, one of 600g


Also as bad in my opinion is simply taking a mould off someones hard work and then reproducing it (often badly) and selling it as there own because they lack the skills to design and manufacture a part from scratch.
I have been involved in Composites for over 25 years and have had lots of my work copied some of which even have Patents.
As for CSM, E-Glass, Soric, Closed Cell Foam and other Core Materials they all have a major part to play in Advanced Composites. Used correctly and with honesty they can actually add and increase the performance of a part. I for one would not want to fit an "all carbon" bonnet to the front of a road car. If the worst happens and a pedestrian is hit then they will be pierced with shards of Carbon Fibre.
For me there is a massive difference between "Bling" and Composites.
Some  people may now see the deliberate irony in my chosen company name Wink

Carbon Copies Ltd
morepower
morepower
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TomDesign (24/06/2013)
Rich but if not to clear coat UV destroy your parts!


Not with polyester... I used one that is UV stable... Pre-pregs on the other hand I have clear coated for protection...
TomDesign
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ok please give me number or link what polyster uv protected?
GO

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